How to Fix Lateral Knee Pain for Climbers (LCL, IT Band, Meniscus, Outer Knee Pain)

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2022-04-04に共有
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// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 What this video is about
00:22 The anatomy involved in lateral knee pain
00:45 Biceps femoris
01:05 IT band
01:42 Lateral meniscus
02:03 LCL
02:39 Mechanism of injury chart
02:51 How to test and diagnose lateral knee pain causes
03:21 Test 1: Resisted Knee Flexion
03:43 Test 2: Specific Palpation
04:23 Test 3: Varus Test
04:51 Test 4: Meniscus Test Cluster
06:52 Diagnosis Chart
07:06: Treatments for lateral knee pain
08:07 More information about rehab exercises
08:38 Treatment chart
08:57 An added bonus!

// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 104

No matter what’s causing your lateral or “outer” knee pain, it is treatable! So in this video we’ll discuss why lateral knee pain happens in climbers, how to diagnose your specific issue, and what you can do on your own to fix it. Let’s goooo!

Lateral knee pain from climbing-related activities is common due to the high stresses we impose on our legs while heel hooking, high stepping, hiking, and of course falling.

These activities can result in traumatic or overuse-related injuries to one or more of the following tissues:

The biceps femoris
The iliotibial band or ITB
The lateral meniscus
The lateral collateral ligament or LCL

Biceps Femoris
The biceps femoris is one of our hamstring muscles. The tendon for this muscle attaches on the back, lateral side of our knees. That tendon can get damaged if loaded with excessive force, which can easily happen during a heel hook. This maneuver often places rotary forces on the knee as well, which can exacerbate the strain on the biceps femoris and other hamstring muscles.

Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/why-climbers-get-later…

// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
- Biceps femoris: *derivative work: r@geGluteus_maximus.png: Nikai, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/, via Wikimedia Commons
- Biceps femoris animation: BodyParts3D/Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons
- IT Band: Jmarchn, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
- IT Band: Healthimage, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
- Glutes: BodyParts3D/Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons
- Knee X-ray: Mikael Häggström, M.D. - Author info - Reusing images- Conflicts of interest:  NoneMikael Häggström, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
- Knee anatomy: Blausen.com staff (2014). "Medical gallery of Blausen Medical 2014". WikiJournal of Medicine 1 (2). DOI:10.15347/wjm/2014.010. ISSN 2002-4436., CC BY 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #physicaltherapist

コメント (21)
  • PSA: If you have catching or locking of the knee PLEASE go see a doctor so they can give you a proper assessment. :)
  • 20yrs og rehab since Iraq and yrars of trail running n marathons. Great info. Thank You!
  • Thank you so much for making this video! This content is insanely helpful!!!
  • BEST VIDEO on the subject, comprehensive, easy to understand, I subscribed and I'm grateful I found your channel!
  • @mwoods3
    Wow, so timely for me and really well presented. You made me feel a lot more optimistic about my lateral knee pain that I sustained from climbing a couple weeks ago. Thank you!
  • @domxgun
    Amazing stuff right here. Not a climber, but I do hike and run on extra gnarly terrain. This is exactly what I needed. Time stamped and straight to the point. Thank you!
  • @chazott
    exactly the content I was looking for. Thank you!
  • @CJski
    would love to see more about wrist injuries!!
  • @Lazankas
    This is freaking amazing, Jason! Taped my Biceps Femoris and feel better already. Saved the video for future rehab. Thank You :)
  • @Reckoning2943
    This helped a lot! I wasn’t sure whether my pain was caused by a meniscus injury or IT-band syndrome but aside from slight pain if I pressed right next to my knee where the it band is located, I checked negative on all of those tests. I ran a marathon and went back to running too early. I experienced a little pain after the second run. I only feel pain after running a few miles and the pain always goes away after stretching and waiting for a bit. if I ran for more than 10 miles I would feel the pain a little when walking down the stairs but nothing serious. Yet. I’ll go see a doctor regardless. The next race is up in April.
  • Extremely helpful. How are toe hooks are taking part in those various injury patterns?
  • Great stuff. I'd be stoked if you could do a video on PRP injections for treating things like meniscus injuries and arthritis. I tore my medial meniscus bouldering in 2017, had 4 years of knee instability (medial dislocation) and reinjury. Then took a PRP injection last year, followed by lots of physio. The result is a much more stable knee and I can now do lots of stuff that was impossible in the previous 4 years (flagging, breast stroke, dancing etc). IMO more people should know about PRP as a treatment option.
  • love these vids, thanks! i dont have any knee pain now but was curious if there were any recommended preventative things to do to help condition my knee for the stresses from climbing?
  • @demoman2
    just adding a data point: just high grade partially tore my LCL (FCL) and low grade partially tore my PFL while doing a high intense heel hook (MRI results). it does happen! heel hooks are a staple of my strengths, so this one came as quite a surprise. there was a loud pop (re very fkn loud, it sounds like a tree branch snapping...) but I was able to walk out of the crag, with my dog pulling... lol. I was shocked nothing was completely ruptured by how gnarly it sounded. anyways, really nice video here! glad I have my ortho and PT onboard to help out with the process. definitely recommend seeking professional help if you can.
  • I am wondering why this outer knee pain is happening to me for a couple of weeks now. Finally I know exactly what it is!
  • My pain seems to be concentrated in the MCL (and a little in the popliteal fossa area). It's more like stiffness and irritation that won't go away. It came on once I'd returned to the climbing gym after a week or so doing a lot of hiking/climbing in Washington. I'd had some cramping in that area while doing a climb of Mt Olympus (8000 feet of gain, 40 miles, 50lbs on my back). It's not enough to noticeably impact my climbing (yet) but is more noticible when I squat in the days following any climbing. Thoughts?