How to: PSA M16A1 Barrel on a Vintage 1970’s Colt Upper

Man i wish i lived in a free state.

That's what I call fun.

I use cv joint grease for the bolt carrier where it rides in the upper receiver. Same for charging handle. Much smoother than any oil. Everything else gets 5w30 mobil one.

I’m about to bite the bullet on building a m16a1 parts kit. Where is the best place to buy the parts kit?

Nice Job Ben 😀😊😎

I always do a little more than the min torque requirement.

One question when your soul is frightful you do a headspace to make sure it's active safety fire thank you for the video

?? I believe this guy has it backwards. Bev Block = Muzzle Work & White Receive Vise = Barrel Nut. Index Pin doesn't rotate with barrel installation it's only drawn rearwards with clamping force. Muzzle brake or comp install will spin the barrel hence engaging the barrel extension with the bev block. Don't use a receiver clamp for muzzle work LOL

Yeah, I swapped barrels on one of those guns assembled by King Kong! I didn't know their reputation prior to...it made for interesting conversation. Did you check headspace?

My question pertains to the two blocks. You here about index pin breaks. Im only going to do muzzle device can the barrel move when doing so you want that stationary and the bev block be better?

Assembly is fine. True test is firing it to make sure you have enough gas that cycles through to function. Now to really lube the rifle before firing. First is to put a drop of oil into the gas carrier key the thing on top that catches the gas tube thingy, then a few drops into the side of the vent holes that goes into the gas expansion chamber. Once you fire your first round the oil will go all inside the upper receiver to properly lube your M16 or AR-15. Honestly don't use Break Free CLP!!! That shit is garbage!!! Use FP-10 by Shooters Choice, this is pure lubricant like motor oil 10-30 WT which is recommended during the Vietnam Era which worked. Break Free CLP causes carbon build up which can build up in front of the bolt carrier and bolt head which will cause the bolt not to close in battery. Using the forward assist to close the bolt will result in blowing up because the carrier and bolt didn't lock up properly. Using a lubricant that doesn't turn to carbon is easier to clean and wipe when you see your rifle fail to go into battery. FP-10 never failed me in Iraq, my M2 Ma Deuce, M240s, and SAWs kept running even with dust in in them. I told my gunners clean them well and lubricate them well. Weapons will fail without lubrication no matter what environment you are in especially combat conditions.

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This may be a stupid question but how do you make sure the FSB is properly aligned?

What wrench did you use for the barrel nut?

Anyone else catch the Bioshock tattooos?

No wonder there so many crap AR rifles on the market, following advice like this..All of the stress is still in the front take down stud..The small sail on the Bev block is not a tight fit in the upper and it still allows the upper to turn and put stress on the front take down pin....Installing the carrier on the O ring does absolutely nothing..I repeat, it does absolutely nothing..The carrier just spins around on it..Use an action rod with a sail ( Midwest Industries) that is a snug fit in the upper and spreads the stress in the uppers charging handle channel while preventing the barrel from clocking..Don't use antiseize as it doesn't prevent galvanic corrosion or give a proper torque..Use Aero shell 64 or 33 as required by the TDP..Colt factory uses Dupont molykote..If the notch is 1/2 way to alignment then torque all the way..If only 3/4 then loosen/ tighten the nut until the threads are seasoned enough to allow proper alignment with the gas tube..When doing a safety check you use your thumb and slowly roll it to test the fire control group..