Pro Route Setter VS Beginner Route Setter
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Published 2023-07-24
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Check out @impactroutesetting : www.impactroutesetting.co.uk/
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Ben: www.instagram.com/impact_routesetting/
All Comments (21)
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The style that Josh's boulder is set in is what I like to call "Tall".
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I'm a tall setter myself so I understand Josh's struggle but the fact that the first move is going to be near impossible for people who can't keep the foot on is a major problem
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The real Oppenheimer vs. Barbie battle we all deserved!! Both look like perfect projects!
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The biggest problem with Joshs Boulder seems to be to me that the beginning gets much, much more difficult once you are to small to reach the first hold statically. Everyone below like 1.70 probably gets shot down there really hard unless he or she is really really strong.
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"I'm Dave and i'm just an average climber". Then proceeds to flash both boulders and break the beta on the black one. The dude should be in more videos!
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I like both problems. I do think the black would be really cool without the massive platform at the bottom. Ben almost just did the boulder without it and seems like it would have a really cool flow without a stop halfway through. Because of that I'd probably vote Bens problem since it is more sustained. I also really like when gyms set crimp lines as it feels so rare now, at least at my gym.
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I would 100% try Ben's boulder first, but Josh's boulder look surprisingly cool to climb!
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regardless of the boulders themselves what this is an actual really good example of is the role a head route-setter plays during setting. letting other setters make "mistakes" and allowing them to run down erroneous lines of thought to come out on the other side with a rough idea that can be modified into a good boulder as opposed to dissecting each hold as they go on the wall.
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I would definitely like Josh's boulder more. Since the beta for pink one is kind of straight forward you will flash it if you have the finger strength and probably never climb it again. The black boulder has fun moves so I'd do it couple times even after I send it :)
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Bro, this girl just cruised the first two moves of your bloc in the background of the outtro! She even held the cutloose that no-one else could hold! At least have the decency to show us the rest of her attempt
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I now wanna see the other way around! Same holds, but different setter!
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On josh's problem you might only need to ad one small foothold at the start to make it slightly easier. Cool problem's 🤟
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I think I'd prefer Ben's because it looks like it's more equal to different hights
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Wow, a video of my favorite series of hold! Maybe that's an absurd thing to say, but I always get giddy when I see a new boulder set with those huge black star holds.
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Climbing Hangar! Those pink walls are iconic
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Fun video that makes curious for your workshop
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for setting, I would definitely prefer the smaller holds :-D just setting with volumes and big holds seems pretty hard for a beginner lol
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I mean Josh your boulder looked awesome- people who would come in the gym would definitely be like oh I want to try this boulder as the aesthetics are good. Very fun video thanks Josh! :)
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I'd probably prefer josh's boulder. I'm drawn to big holds like a moth to light
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Tbf - Dave may want to re-assess his 'average normal climber' intro, right before flashing 2 pretty hard climbs(!)
