SHOP TIPS #268 Using Tap Extractors tubalcain mrpete222

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Published 2016-09-05
Int his chapter, I talk about why taps break and how walton tap extractors work.

All Comments (21)
  • @johnstrange6799
    I tend to use a considerable amount of yelling and cursing at broken taps. It doesn't help remove them, but it just comes so natural.
  • Thanks for sacrificing a tap and tap extractor to show us how the extractor "works."
  • @RGSABloke
    Mr. Pete, always interesting, never boring, please keep posting. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe
  • @Cavemannspace
    Good information, as usual, and my introduction to tap extractors. Among the most valuable information and instruction we get is instruction as to how to keep from breaking something or ruining a workpiece! I'll gladly take that every day! That rates second only to safety and I truly appreciate your constant common sense safety reminders and not taking any shortcuts on safety. Another excellent instructional video. Thanks Mr. Pete.
  • @OldSweetTed
    I always wondered how to remove a broken tap and now I know. I didn't appreciate how easy it was to break a tap. I've been lucky! Thank you, Tubalcain!
  • @timmadden8849
    Thank you for your explanation. I just happen to acquire a box assorted taps from a 98 year of gentleman and a tool I didn't recognize was in with them, it was a 1/8 (6mm) tap extractor. The fellas in the machine shop I work will like this too. Thanks again.
  • @yanneman57
    In a school environment it can be smart to keep broken and banged up tools as examples to show students why and how they break from unintended or incorrect use.
  • @garbo8962
    I'm an electrician and the dozen times that I tried using the Walton 3 or 4 finger broken taps they never worked. This was on 6/32 8/32 & 1/4" taps. Gave away the few new ines that I had. Always used tapmatic fluid when tapping but sure taps that I broke were dull. Thsnks for all the great vids.
  • Thank you Tubalcain! I found a Walton 3/8 - 10 mm in an old toolbox from an estate sale and had no idea what it was. So, went to Garage Journal and posted it up where quickly it was identified as a broken tap extractor. Had no idea how that would work, searched youtube and of course it led me here. Now I know. Likely will never use it. But at least I know what it is!
  • @SquirrelsForAll
    Thank you for posting, this was very much appreciated and educational.
  • @ruppi42
    Very interesting presentation, thank you very much! I didn´t even know that tap extractors exist.
  • @whidbeyman
    Begin by grinding down the tap flat, so that no part of the fingers is not surrounded by the collar. Then, use a small brass hammer to hammer a bit on the end of the tap. This loosens the tap in its threads. If the tap breaks off down in the hole, use a brass punch between hammer and tap fragment. Then, use the Wilton. If the tap fragment does not readily back out, repeat the above steps.
  • @droddy2hottie
    Sometimes I'll hang on to broken tools to remind myself of the lessons learned. I find I learn more from everything going wrong than I do when things go right.
  • @peterwill3699
    40 years as maintenance mechanic,never had any luck with these type of extractors. drilled with carbide,heated to soften, shadderd them,small punch.Dull taps and inexperience are big causes.
  • @danbywater6333
    you are great teacher I'd have liked to have been a student in your class I enjoy your videos very much!!!I learned about taps and dies extracting and so forth on the job with a very patient a boss I had when I was young you remind me allot of him Tublican
  • @robert574
    1. If the broken end of the tap sticks up, grind it down near the surface. Take the part and give the top of the broken tap a few taps with a flat punch and hammer (not too hard just to loosen it). 2. Put the part in a vise on a drill press or a mill, centered on the spindle with a drill chuck. Blow out any chips, give it a little oil and install the extractor and put the tap handle on it. 3. Next we need to hold the top of the extractor straight with something in the drill chuck (a pin that fits in the opening of the handle above the extractor or maybe a center on top). 4. Lower the spindle with one hand using light pressure and wiggle the tap handle with the other. The idea is to keep the extractor in contact and straight so the fingers are only in shear and least likely to bend. That's your best chance for the extractor to work and If you see them bending, stop and try to loosen it some more. If the tap breaks deep in the hole, you might be able to put the top half of the tap back in and just slide in the extractor fingers to twist the piece out. See if you can run a hex nut around the tap. If you can't find a tap extractor, I have removed broken taps using straight pieces of music wire, the top of the tap and a hex nut that matches the tread. You'll need to open up the hex nut a little with a drill bit, but leave enough thread so it still hangs on to the tap thread. You will need 3-4 pieces of music wire per flute (pack them in tightly), run the hex nut down against the part (not tight) and still use the drill press or mill chuck to hold it. That's how I was taught by an old tool and die maker. I can hear him now, "Broke off a tap, huh? (chuckle)" Then when you gave up, he'd take the tap out for you. What a great guy he was.
  • Wow, those sacrifices will not be in vain. 😁 I've never actually used an extractor before. I do know removing a tap after requires drastic measures 🤣. Enter the ol' mig eraser after chopping the little bugger out lol. Thanks for the video, Mr. Pete! 😊
  • @GarthGoldberg
    I didn't know there was such a tool. Thanks. Breaking the tap was painful.
  • @GBewley
    I would think that the first move is indeed to break the tap off as closely to the top of the workpiece as possible, thereby allowing the fingers to be supported at all points. Leaving that space surely allows the fingers, unsupported, to twist and fail. Not to say it will always work in that way, but I’d think they fail often when there is space. Love your videos, Tubal...thank you for them!
  • @billlee5307
    Mr Pete, I'd say bleeding for your watchers goes beyond the call of duty! When I taught graduate students a very basic shop course their first job was to drill and tap two 1/4 inch steel plates for 10-32 machine screws so the plates could be held together. They all got their own new taps and drills. Few got the four holes lined up and it was rare for them to get the two tapped holes done before braking their taps. Thanks!