How to install tubeless rim tape that won't leak | Syd Fixes Bikes

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If you tension the rim tape more as you apply it you won't have the bubbles and you won't need the electrical tape at all. It not a weight issue, it's a technique issue. Also, you should overlap from the valve hole. I also recommend heating the tip of the sharp tool for a clean hole. Great video!

One trick I've found is to apply the tape, then put a tire and tube on the wheel and air up the tube. Leave the tube on for a bit to set. It pushes evenly on the tape and pushes the bubbles out. Remove tire and tube and tape will be smooth.

Your attitude and energy is just infectious. I can't wait to see more

Syd and Macky I can't live without this repository of bike shop video tutorials. In this video, I recognized the same issues I have with the tubeless rim tape on carbon rims... thanks for making these videos

You ain't alone. A lot of us have been biking for awhile and cant do some of the basics... this is cool, thanks guys

This is awesome! Great work you guys

At 4:28 or so, the rim tape isn't being applied correctly. You have to pull pretty hard to stretch the tape while applying it. That way it will go down nicely into the channel. Most rim tapes are pretty good, but I've found that "Muc-Off" is particularly easy to stretch. You shouldn't have to follow it up with electrical tape. The process of putting in a tube to set it is good, but also unnecessary. Just pressurizing the tire will do exactly the same thing. 30 psi (or whatever) puts 30 psi against the tape, whether there's a tube there or not. The only reason you'd need a tube is if the tire won't hold pressure at all. At 6:57 when you use the "pokey thing" just insert it from the other side of the rim, where you can easily see the hole, instead of the rim side, where you can't! The weight of extra layers isn't the issue, it's the thickness. It just makes the process harder. It's probably why putting the tire on was more difficult, as the bead couldn't go as low into the now filled up channel. Finally, putting it on a truing stand rather than on the floor makes it really hard to apply the kind of stretchy pulling force you need. I'd go to the Muc-Off tape application video, TBH. In one video they use a truing stand, in one they don't. Not using one is easier in my experience.

I watched this vid twice did the exact same thing they did and was shocked how easy this was to go tubeless. Everyone thinking about going tubeless just follow these steps. THEY WORK!!!!

I’ve watched other how-to videos and by comparison this one was very easy to follow and very helpful for someone not mechanically inclined. Great job!!!

I was out riding when this was posted. Got the notification mid-climb and tried to watch it right away (perfect excuse to take a break, amirite?!), but reception in the mountains is crap 😢 back home. About to take a shower and excited to watch it right after! 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼

I’ve encountered a similar issue with purpose made rim tape. When I chatted with a mechanic about it, he suggested using a heat gun/hair dryer to shrink fit after application. I’ve been doing it ever since, it works great. I’m pretty positive that’s what they do at the factory because it looks exactly like a factory finish when done. Doesn’t have the added durability of double layering like electrical, but probably worth trying for those of us doing gravel/road/cx tubeless where the pounding isn’t quite as severe!

Love this different approach to tech videos, usually you have someone that knows what he/she’s doing. Seeing it from the point of view of someone who’s just learning is very interesting (and entertaining!)

You guys are AWESOME! Thanks for the tip about using electrical tape over top of rim tape. Even with just a floor pump I was able to seat effectively and my tire is holding air. Thanks again!

Thanks guys! That proved really useful in fixing the previous owners interesting rim tape experiments. Pumped up first go, (to my relief.) I liked the truing stand idea, so I drilled a hole in a hardwood offcut, clamped it up in a vice, then used my rear axle bolt as a workaround for this job. Makes lining the tape up much easier. So thanks for that idea, too!

The 1 minute recap is genius! Great work guys. Super entertaining and useful.

You both communicate the important points clearly, but it's still entertaining watching Syd doing it as a relative beginner and having fun - which is reassuring too. This is important, I assume many of us will be watching to learn a new maintenance task, this makes attempting something unfamiliar much less confronting. I hope this is a winning formula for you (and us), I can't wait to see more.

I loved it! You guys are my favorite people on youtube, srsly. I've never had a problem installing my rim tape, but I'll be watching this every time I need to just for a fun refresher.

Great idea for a channel. Like that the videos are short, to-the-point and with a little humor!

Agree with some of the other posters. I use Stan’s tape, same probably for others. You MUST stretch the tape as you are applying it, then you don’t need electrical tape. You know you’re stretching it enough if the tape doesn’t bubble up over the spoke holes. Also on some rims (namely the Roval aluminum rims on my Specialized Levo) the tape WILL NOT stick well (the rim seems to have some kind of finish that resists mud and also tape sticking). You can solve this by using a 2-3in bit of gorilla tape to hold the starting end, so you can pull hard enough to stretch the the tape without it coming loose. Also, I have to disagree with one of the other posters, I think tape width is a bit of a preference, as long as it covers the spoke holes. I use same width as rim. I got a pro-built wheel the other day and the tape was the width of the middle channel, not the whole rim. I think as long as you stretch well and use good rim tape it just has to cover the holes. Having it the same width as the rim gives the tape additional purchase on the shoulders of the rim bead. My .02. Great channel!