How to Make Cabinet Pudding — The Victorian Way

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Published 2024-04-25
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Mrs Crocombe is back in the kitchen, today preparing a steamed pudding which makes use of stale sponge cake by freshening it up with preserved fruit. This dish is ideal for the "hungry months" between March and May when, in the Victorian period, there was little fresh produce available for many people.

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INGREDIENTS
For this recipe, you will need...
• Dried of glacé cherries
• Candied angelica
• Candied peel and stem ginger
• A 115g / 4oz sponge cake, which may be stale
• 115g / 4oz amaretti biscuits or macaroons
• 450ml / 16oz full fat milk or single cream
• 85g / 3oz sugar
• 5 small egg yolks and 2 whites
• 55ml / 2oz brandy

METHOD
You will need a plain mould for this, to hold 1-2 UK pints. A pudding basin is ideal, but a charlotte mould also works.
1. Prepare your decoration by slicing the ginger into rounds (or stamping into shapes), cutting the angelica to fit your mould and cutting the peel, if using, as suits.
2. Slice your sponge cake to fit the mould as well.
3. Next, prepare a custard by heating the milk in a pan with the sugar and flavourings and pouring it onto the lightly beaten eggs. Put this back into the pan and cook over a low heat until it thickens slightly. Do not scramble the eggs! Alternatively, if you are an unconfident custard maker, put all of the custard ingredients into a pan along with the cornflour, and heat, whisking or stirring with a spatula, until it thickens.
4. Add the brandy and set aside to cool (if it is a warm day, stand the pan in some cold water to speed things along)
5. Grease your mould very well. Now decorate with your prepared candied items, sticking everything firmly into the butter but ensuring that your decoration only comes ¾ of the way up the sides.
6. Carefully place a layer of sponge cake in the bottom of the mould, on top of the decoration, pressing firmly. Now add a layer of biscuits, then cake, then biscuits, and repeat until the mould is ¾ full. Press well.
7. Carefully pour in the hopefully fairly cool custard and allow it to seep to the bottom of the mould, adding more gradually until the mould is full. Put a greased piece of paper on top, then tie on a pudding cloth to keep in in place (you can also use a saucer).
8. Lower the basin into a pan of boiling water, which should come about 2/3 way up the mould. Put a lid on the pan and steam for around an hour, keeping the water at a gentle simmer rather than a rolling boil.
9. Remove from the water when done and turn out. Serve with wine sauce, if wanted – though the pudding should be moist enough on its own.

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All Comments (21)
  • @EnglishHeritage
    Hello everyone. We hope you enjoy your visit to Mrs Crocombe's kitchen! Here are the answers to some questions you may have about this recipe, from food historian Dr Annie Gray: • Isn't this just bread and butter pudding? Essentially, yes, or at least it comes from the same imperative, to use up stale baked goods in an easy and economical way. There are lots of recipes for similar puddings, with loads of different names, but this is the one Mrs Crocombe would have known best. • What exactly is a British pudding anyway? The British definition of a pudding is much, much broader than the modern American one (though the American definition in 1881 would have been much more like the British one for the two cuisines were not yet as divided as they are now). In the US puddings are almost always a variation on the theme of custard. In Britain puddings can be sweet or savoury (e.g. summer pudding vs steak and kidney), boiled or baked, and in the past the category also included sausages, dumplings, and toad-in-the-hole. Nowadays the term is also used as a genetic one for sweets (as in desserts or, as you'll occasionally hear, afters). This, therefore, is a pudding, but then so is spotted dick and toad in the hole. We don't make the rules, sorry. • Why does Mrs Crocombe claim Jamaican ginger is British? In 1881 the British Empire was at its peak, encompassing India, Australia, New Zealand, Hong Kong, Guyana, Jamaica, and Barbados, among others. The ‘scramble for Africa’ was also well underway. Many countries under British rule were used to supply food that otherwise had to be imported from places not controlled by the British. Ginger was planted in Jamaica by the Spanish in around 1525, and continued to be a major export when the British took over. Until Emancipation in 1838, it was produced by enslaved people working in horrific conditions. By Mrs Crocombe’s time, slavery had been abolished everywhere except Cuba and Brazil. The British had reframed the Empire as part of Britain and encouraged people to buy Imperial products as a way of demonstrating patriotism - this would reach its peak between the two world wars, but even in 1881 the definition of British, at least for economic purposes, was quite a lot wider than strict geography would suggest. • What's an Italian Warehouse? Italian Warehouses started life in the 18th century as shops kept by (usually) Italian merchants selling luxury foods (mainly, but not exclusively Italian) to the elites. By the 1880s the term was more generic, and the shops tended to sell a wider range of slightly upmarket goods to the middle classes and above - they were really just a type of grocer. They sold lots of things in bottles and jars, such as sauces and oils (olive, especially), but also fresh produce such as parmesan cheese and citrus fruit. • Can I just use custard power? You could, but don't make it according to the packet or it'll be a little bit too thick. If you are a nervous custard maker your best bet is to make a custard sauce as Mrs Crocombe does here, and add a tablespoon of custard powder. It's an acceptable Victorian cheat (maybe not for Mrs Crocombe), as Alfred Bird invented custard powder in 1837 so that his wife, who were allergic to eggs, could still enjoy the glories of custard. It was commercialised in the 1840s.
  • Would Mrs Crocombe be kind enough to teach us how to preserve fruits the victorian way? It is a skill we have sadly lost, and one which would be most useful.
  • @xr6lad
    Mrs C hesitated when putting in the brandy - then thought 'darn Lady Braybrooke is an old soak, she'd like much more'
  • @lunasilver2973
    I would love a "Basics with Mrs Crocombe" series so much!
  • @The_Smith
    Still trying to get my head around cake lasting long enough to go stale . . . But yes Mrs Crocombe, we shouldn't waste food.
  • @annemchurchwell
    Our favorite lady throwing more shade than a shade tree. Love Mrs. Crocombe.
  • @Carter-hx3nb
    It's gobsmacking how much knowledge a person in Mrs. Crocombe's position needed to have.
  • @KJ-xx6xr
    Imagine Mrs Crocombe in a modern grocery store, fresh produce year round, and then seeing subpar sponge cakes and custard powders of all sorts of flavors.
  • I love how even Mrs "You shouldn't buy a sponge cake you should be able to make one easily" Crocombe doesn't actually have any judgement about people using Bird's for their custard, just a warning to make sure that your employer is ok with you doing so.
  • @rgibson7305
    Angelicur, saurce, snark about a knowing how to make a sponge, and a sacking! We are truly blessed.
  • NOTHING has made me click a video faster than the smiling face of my favourite Victorian Cook
  • @ShellyS2060
    Mary Ann finally got a "very nice"! Good job, girl!
  • @Angela-Ruby
    I personally would be absolutely mortified if I was to be “sacked” from my employer for using a custard powder shortcut without permission. I understand the last maid who did this was publicly shamed and could never find work again. Oh the humanity!
  • @MaureenTheTemp
    Yea, Mrs. Crocombe our heroine!! Now I want to see her make a Tipsy Cake.
  • @walkfarm1
    I was pleased to see Mrs Crocombe’s efforts to make a pretty pattern with the dried fruits almost wasted. This wasn’t because I wish any malice, but because it is what would happen to me.
  • @kathyjohnson2043
    In the live chat, someone asked why it is called cabinet pudding. The all-knowing google didn't say, but as I am not British (even by 1800's standards) my guess would be cabinet refers to stored, on-hand, ingredients similar to how I would say it was made with pantry ingredients. However, the Great British Bake-off says it was originally called Chancellor's pudding in French but doesn't give a reason why.
  • Mrs. Crocombe complimented Jamaican ginger! 😮 Jamaica, big up yourself! 😂 🇯🇲
  • @beaubrent
    Every day is brighter when Mrs Crocombe releases a new video.