I Bought a Broken Porsche at auction Hiding a $12,000 Turbo Kit, and Fixed it for $23!

Here's what we found when we looked inside this Porsches Engine: https://youtu.be/ch_qaIKnngk?si=KblinIGwSF2Z_Jmc

Sam, that turbo won't last long. ​ All turbine and compressor wheels from any turbo company are balanced separately. But, they must be balanced as an assembly as well. This is done by "group balancing" on a Heins balancing machine, or on a VSR (Vibration Sorting Rig) machine which spools the turbo to 70,000+rpm and it will tell you where the imbalance is. I worked at Turbonetics for 8 years and have built and rebuilt thousands of turbos. Also, you failed to clean the excessive burnt oil (called "coking") on the piston ring seal area on the turbine wheel shaft. I will also let you know that the failure happened originally because the oil draining out of the turbo is not draining quickly enough. This causes the oil to build up inside the center housing of the turbo and the pressure will cause it to leak past the piston ring seal of the turbine wheel and / or compressor wheel and dump oil into the exhaust and / or intake. The oil drains from the bottom by gravity into the crankcase. There has to be a slope in oil drain line so it flows properly into the crankcase. If the oil drain is horizontal, it will back up with oil quickly back into the turbo since it cannot drain fast enough.

Your oil problem is because it's a t4 turbo that requires a oil feed restrictor that doesn't look like it's installed. I go through this with rx7's all the time. You need to slightly restrict the oil feed so the oil doesn't blow out the turbine like what's happening. The reason why you start smoking in high rpm is because the oil pressure increases and starts the blowout.

You marked the turbo housings to clock them correctly so they would go back into the car easily but that’s not the part that’s balanced. The compressor and the turbine wheels are balanced to each other and I did not see you mark the position of the compressor wheel on the shaft after taking off the nut. if you did it looks like you did not show us that part and it sounded like you were mistaken about clocking the housings vs balancing the wheels. If you did not properly mark the orientation of the compressor wheel then you likely now have extra vibration in your turbo and it may not last very long. Just a heads up.

Hey man, just had to say I love your channel. I watch a LOT of car YouTubers and you are my all-time favorite..!

You are doing things the rest of us dream about. Thanks, good stuff.

Nice work Sam. I love the way you give things a go. You are a source of inspiration!

I gotta say your Ads are as smooth as they come. You integrate then seemlessly into your videos as you use the products. 10/10 salesman.

Sam is a master story teller. I don't even care what car he is rebuilding, could be a tricycle for all I care, but the way he tells the story is YouTube royalty!

The oil getting all over Sam was way to funny🤣🤣

The first thing you should have checked is the turbo oil drain system. A blocked or malfunctioning remote drain will can cause the same issue causing the turbo oil seals to back up with oil as it has nowhere to go but through the turbo seals. On a Porsche boxer engine the turbos sit low and hence have a remote drain back that needs to pump oil back up to the sump. I suggest you check the turbo drain back system.

This is awesome! Cant wait to see the new updates next time.

Love the videos . The detective work makes it better than just looking at car reviews or braggers with new cars .

The turbo is leaking because of the -10 oil drain fitting being too small on the ID, it’s a super common issue, I have several videos of fixing this. You could / should have used an upgrade 360 degree thrust bearing kit which is for high boost. I also prefer to cut the plate behind the compressor wheel for an oring. Also I would suggest that you marked the compressor nut, wheel and shaft location with a file to keep the location of the compressor wheel at which it was balanced. This turbo is a to4s 60-1 59 x76mm with ptrim 64.5 x 74mm turbine, it’s a Garrett turbo. It’s rated about 650 hp. The oil will leak out again, it’s forced out the front and rear seal of the turbo because the oil drain fitting isn’t large enough for the oil to leave the turbos center cartridge. Here is how you fix the oil drain problem: Fix precision 6466 turbo oil leak permanently https://youtu.be/WLJCVKAm-NQ

Love this car and the rebuild of the turbo. A couple of laughs when the oil came everywhere. Made my day! And its just 8:30 AM here :)

I just learned that engine blinking thing which I actually needed to learn directly from this video because my cars owners manual just got stolen. Great info as always!

" Why is it coming out so hard, Why!?" That made me laugh, very entertaining. Love the channel.

I always use some 2x4 or 2x6 to work as "ramps" when lifting super low cars. It's way easier when you're lowering it too :)

LOL sam was on his top - "Mike went home, showered got a change of clothes but somehow still looks dirty" 😂😂😂

I have a 2012 987.2 base in Metallic Saphire, looking forward to watching what that turbocharger does for you!