Valve Adjustment With Motor Running!

Earned my living as a mechanic for 35 years, I've performed this job many times. With the engine warmed up, remove covers, install splash tabs/clips on rockers. With engine idling, loosen each rocker till you hear it clatter, tighten just till clatter stops, then tighten one full turn. When the clatter stops, the hydraulic lifter is just beginning to work. The additional turn puts the lifter in the center of its travel. Unless a part has failed, you should not have to do this again. P.S. I am not sure why, but people who were "told things" will put their views out here as if they carried authority, because they think one bit of wisdom applies to all engines. After reading many comments here , I think a lot of "Armchair quarterbacks" have weighed in with opinions. Some of these people are not differentiating between solid and hydraulic lifters, or have confused parts of both methods. And some rockers are pedestal mounted. You simply torque them to spec and the lifter takes up the slack.

I cut the tops off an old pair of Alum valve covers and use them while adjusting the rockers , works great no oil spilling on the exhaust.

Only way to learn...self teaching. Always a risk of a negative outcome, but worth it down the road.

Before you take anything apart, with the engine warm & running, listen to each valve to find the noisy ones. You can easily do it with a long screwdriver (I use a 12" long Philips-head Craftsman) by holding the ball-end of the handle tightly against your ear. Now proceed down the valve cover, firmly pressing the screwdriver tip directly over each rocker arm. You'll be amazed what you can hear! This is great, so you can focus on the sloppy out-of-adjustment rockers.

So refreshing to hear advice from someone who admits they don’t know it all. Great tutorial and I love the trial and error mentality. This is exactly how I learned on my 350 sbc…so. Much. Fun.

Just found your channel and love your content! I'm not sure if you're aware, or if this is even the case but something to note and pay attention to about later model GM TBI trucks. When GM designed and used these engines, motor oils had high concentrations of zinc and phosphorus in them to provide greater lubrication. The EPA mandated less use of these materials after these trucks were produced and those who run flat tappet cam trucks have been known to experience excessive cam love and lifter wear as a result. One of the early symptoms is valves going out of adjustment as the lifter and cam lobe interface wears. I'm not saying yat is the issue, but it's something to look into and be aware of. I also have a 1999 Suburban with the 5.7. Vortec and love to see people keeping these trucks alive and well. I'll leave a link to an Amsoil article about it, take a look and feel free to formulate your own opinion on the issue. It's all about knowledge, and to each their own! Love your channel and you've got a new sub. https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/classic-and-vintage/articles/reduced-zddp-and-wear-protection/

That light idea is mint!

We use to do that all the time in the old days, you can get chips that cover the pushrod holes to deflect the oil.

Careful not to bottom out your socket so it touches the rockers. Just slip it on the nut enough to turn the nut, but not to put pressure on the socket & rocker or it might keep the rocker from ticking freely during your adjustment process.

I'm nearly 50 years old and the best way to find a clicking rocker arm and adjust them , it's not dangerous to feel of each rocker while it's running. You will easily find the loose ones because you can feel them hit the valve stems an extra time ,then you just tighten it until it stops ticking and I don't go any further if it's already at operating temp. I only go extra if the engine is cold because you're getting a false adjustment because as the oil gets hotter the oil thins and lifters aren't pumped up as tight .

I'm thinking exhaust gasket could be leaking that's the ticking. mine do. same year and engine I have in my tahoe

I've been told to tighten mine like this, only thing is I have to break the cam in as well, so I'm lost on what to do

The 90's Chevy's are pretty notorious for clicking sounds under the valve covers. My 95 z28 has always done it.

Subscribed. I'm attempting removing the valve cover to place a new breather/oil fill cap. My rubber ring around the breather/fill cap has melted onto/around where you insert & I'm worried about rubber peaces falling down.

You can set valves perfect in 1 360° rotation. Speedway had the chart showing from top dead center then every 90° what valves to adjust. Can find it easy I'm sure, circle track guys use this way all the time. It doesn't matter if it's a new cam with lifters that haven't been pumped up or soaked overnight. Use a 0.001" feeler gauge then the 1/2 turn or whatever preload the manufacturer calls for. I've had friends who weren't comfortable trusting the method and insisted on making a mess doing a one at a time running adjustment and haven't ran into it not being dead on. Saves tons of time and it's always nice not messing with the hot oil. It's worked the same if the heads are cast or aluminum. Had aluminum expansion come up with a non believer.

I love that part where you say; "I've never been this deep into the engine before". I sometimes wish that I could say that. DK. ASE Master since 1978.

I enjoy your videos I like your reasoning and methodology to cure that ticking sound

Chevy engines have had this sort of rocker arm arrangement since Caesar was a pup. The first engine I ever worked on was an old Chevy OHV six cylinder. The valve adjustment is still the same as it was in the late 1950s. Just listen to the motor and follow the instruction. Tuning those old Chevys was pretty easy.

Nice to see a young guy take on the challenge of some OldSkool adjustments ... Im 59 and strange seeing that no OldSkool mechanics like me ''Don't demonstrate what we know' Was nice watching you 'Tune' your Lifters ... and showing it. A shame however that you got Scared .. lol ... You should have continued and Done All of them ... By stopping you have left behind the Hydraulic Lifters that are slowly losing their 'Bleed Down' Spec .. By doing what you started you preserve Future Ticking or Over pumped Lifters ... Thanks for demonstrating but not finishing 👍👍 🇦🇺

Agree with adjusting them all. However, if you can't get the sound after the valve cover is removed, there is a possibility that you have a rocker tapping the valve cover itself. I've seen it many times.