Valve Adjustment With Engine RUNNING! - 1995 Chevy GMC TBI

I am now 68 when I was 21 I was doing maintenance on for my employer in '72 on a '67 Chevy C60 with a V8 with this exact problem. In this case I took the truck to a Chevy dealer. I was with the mechanic and he did this very procedure to get the tapping out of the valves. Great work on your part, 2 thumbs up !

Your engine looks very clean inside Jimmy. Got yourself a well maintained oldy there. For a stock cam, one full turn is what my book says. I have found that even only slightly higher lift cams you may have to reduce to a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. That fraction is only a guide. Turn them in slowly until quiet, then add up to a full turn. If you have an aftermarket cam, good to have an RPM gauge hooked up while you do this. You can listen and watch to see if RPM drops (too tight). Depending on cam lift, you may only be able to go 1/4 turn beyond the point where the lifter stops clicking. But never just go to the point where it stops clicking, always add at least a 1/4 turn more.

One full rotation after the clacking stops has been the standard on normal Chevy flat tappet cam engines since the 70's when I started mechanics. That's what I remember anyway. You did good.

Hi Jimmy. You reminded me of being shown that quick fix road side repair, old mechanics trick in reducing ticking sound. I was show it in the 1970's, it only works on engine's with the same style rockers. Love the video's 👍👍👍👍👍👍 Love seeing the old girl in good condition and used regularly. 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

Thanks Jimmy ! That was a great video. They definitely make it difficult to get that valve cover off. Thanks for all your tips. Your vehicles are in great condition. Keep up the great work. Bill

My uncle was a mechanic and he did what you did and told always 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn to adjust worked for him always

Awesome video, thanks for sharing. Got a 95 2500, saved it from sitting in the same place for 7 years. New to these Chevy trucks. your videos are very informative, especially for people that like to work on their own vehicles. thank you.

Man u just dont k how long I been trying to find out where that darn ticking nose noise coming from u just inspired me to check mines thanks again Jimmy

As an alternative to the cardboard you can get a junkyard set of valve covers. Section off the top of each one leaving the bolt holes. Install those and do the valve lash adjustment. The oil won't get on the exhaust and smoke you out. It takes a little longer but you might have an easier time since there's less mess and smoke in your face.

This method works just fine...its actually the best method imo and the most reliable cause you know the lifters are good and pumped up since its running and you know that they are tight enough but most importantly not to tight and eat up the cam lobes. Good Video Sir!

Good Video My preferred adjustment method after 30 yrs in the trade If I may make a few comments The first is pretty obvious but they need to make sure its not a solid lifter cam! Second is there are clips to go over the rockers that divert the oil to the pivot and don't let it fly all over (check Lisle tools or Ktool) If your doing a lot of the same make ie Chevy you can cut an access slot in an unused valve cover. Position the slot or holes if your good with tape over the adjuster This is really clean as no oil goes over the bottom rail (heads before yours with the perimeter 4 bolt hold downs were bad for this. Also, make sure you use a thin wall 5/8 deep socket 3/8 drive Its really easy with a 1/2 impact to not be in full contact with the adjuster. Also you can sideload the rocker on the pivot Don't go past 3/4 turn I stop at 1/2 or Zero on a hot cam You just want them tight sneak up on the setting slowly It is possible to collapse the lifter and flatten the cam lobe(not good)You may hear the engine load down slightly as you get close it will recover if your not to tight as the lifter reinflates If you are adjusting them frequently you should pull each rocker inspect the pivots and replace the nut The nuts are self-locking but will eventually loose tension I think I have said enough I like your videos your clear and concise I will look for more Thanks Jeff

Valve seal on a pushrod...easy Valve seal on a DOHC 32 Valves V8...I cri

Had a 73 Chevy Monte Carlo, the engine was pretty well whipped. A 350 four barrel. Took the valve covers off and actually found the rear and front rockers laying almost side ways, doing almost no rockin whatsoever. I took my socket and began adjusting what was really most likely a worn out camshaft under those rockers. the clacking went away and she picked up some pony's. After I cut all new vacuum hoses she had to have her idle adjusted big time downwards. I rode it down to Jiffy Lube to change the oil and get her lubed as well as changing the rear fluid out. Car ran pretty good after that.

Dang Jimmy what big balls you have... I would have just turned the tunes louder and kept on truck'n... Keep up the great vids brother! 👍😁

One thing i ran in to was..dont let your socket sit on the adjustment nut/rocker with any downward pressure...your socket will keep it from clacking because you have pressure on the rocker...make small turns and take pressure off the socket and listen...i can take a rocker thats clacking and get it to stop just by resting my socket on the rocker/adjusting nut. If you leave it on there, you might have to back it off 1.5 total rotations whereas you might have heard the clacking start at 3/4 of a turn if there was no weight/pressure on that rocker from the socket. Just my 2 cents worth from previous experience.

This is exactly how I adjust my valves on my 64 Corvair. Always works! Good job!!

Great video Jimmy, glad my 96 is quiet, for now. Door Hinge and roller pins are next for me

My very first vehicle - 1974 Chevy Blazer with the LS9 350 engine. At 80,000 miles, the engine was ticking like a roomful of alarm clocks. At 90,000 miles, blue smoke out the exhaust. My 1997 Tahoe, however...L31 5.7 liter Vortec with nearly a quarter million miles on it. Leaking a little bit of oil, but it still runs smooooooth. Not a hint of blue smoke. Just a slight tick on startup, which goes away after about a minute or so. I always assumed it was a stuck lifter or something like that.

PSA: When doing this, make sure you aren't putting any downward pressure on the socket, it can put pressure on the rocker ball under the nut and change your results. Also, this is the easiest way to adjust lash on hydraulic lifters for a layman on an already installed/running motor, the push rod method takes some time to learn and should only be done by professionals or experienced people.

Didn't watch yet but I feel this should be a good one for some reason, you go MR. 1 ROAD.