Busbar Comparison Guide

having just had a melty busbar experience, I would caution against the busbars that have the bolts that pass through and pull down against the plastic. If the busbar gets warm because either overloaded or loose - the plastic gets soft, which means the bolts are now looser and therefore get hotter until it’s glowing or open circuit. I replaced it with a 400A solid copper bar which is used as a earth bar in large three phase electric panels - no plastic at all and all fixings are metal against metal. And are far cheaper - although you do need to make your own shrouds for them - i used large trunking

I made my own busbars using copper stock. Drilled and tapped the holes with a 30 inch long bar that's half inch thick and 1.5 inches wide. Presently have 4 inverters and 6 280ah battery banks. Have enough holes to expand in the future

Loved this comparison... I haven't done a build yet... but I am planning one soon. THANKS for everything you share here.

Thanks for the comments and explanation about bus bars

Wow this video helped me out tremendously. I'm building a new 6 battery system and I was about to use that exact cheap busbar. I guess I should have done more research. Thank you so much!

Thanks for making points about safety. There is too much weight given to cost while ignoring technical reality. The NEC, UL, inspectors, etc. exist to help keep dangerous activities safe. The amperage of our systems can cook an elephant. If the Jakipers are similar to the EG4 then they should run, nominally, around 30 A per battery maximum. A server rack of 6 is well regulated at the 200A level. Naturally, the peaks can be quite a bit more. We should all know exactly what we are shopping for. Based on what I run, I use the 600A Victrons. Yep, they cost serious coin, but there is no detectable warmth. Love your videos.

Thank you David for taking the time to show us the difference between a good bus bar and a cheap rinky dink bus bar. Rick Fort Worth Texas

Depending on the type of brass, the conductivity is 25-50% that of copper at the same cross section. Bronze is not bad, you just need about 4 times the cross section of copper for the ensure the same conductivity. Besides having a much smaller cross section, the cheaper brass bar you got also has a number of extra holes drilled in it which further reduces the cross sectional area between the connection points.

The thicker one looks like the better BB. Nice review. Thanks for sharing

Mr. Poz, as usual, thank you for sharing the information and breaking it down. I'm building my 1st system (EG4 48v 15kWh w/6500 HF inverter). I have to trust EG4 knows what they're doing with thier equipment but the bits in between.... the fuses, breakers, cables and BUSBARS, can make or break the system (and possibly the structure its in). Lets just say, I'm not overly confident about THAT important piece which is being left to me. I really appreciate having someone to observe that is doing it for real and living (or not) with their consequences.

Thank you for sharing, I love watching your videos, helpful to understand about solar an batteries

You're definitely amazing David

Just got some SUPER cheapo bus bars from amazon for my electric zero turn. Works. Would definitely go big on ones for a stationary system.

Great video as usual

Great stuff!

Thank you for confirming what just recently found out on my 6000w car audio system. Not only did the nut strip out but it's reducing the amount of amps my system can't pull from the Lithium and altinator.

cheers for sharing your knowledge

Thanks David

I just went with the victron lynx power in, best busbar system I've seen

I did! Thx for doing this video !