How To Set Initial Timing and Total Advance Timing on 350 Small Block Engine

Thanks so much for these videos! I could never wrap my head around the total timing thing but you made it perfectly clear to me. I had an advance timing light until my alternator sucked the cord in and whipped it into the fan. Long story short no damage to anything except the timing gun. The reason I'm talking about this is hoping that someone will remember this and be really careful.

You saved me from my despair with this video. Particularly the paper tip!!! Never herd of, simple, but brilliant! I couldn't get to the pully I needed to turn in my 88 monte ss without removing radiator. I was bummed because I had researched how to do timing (never done before) and I had hope to get my car running tonight. Now I have hope ! It actually started after sitting in my garage for nearly 6 months. Thanks!

Base timing also known as initial timing for a 350 should be about 8 degrees before top dead Center for an automatic car or about 5 for a manual car. You instructed to set initial timing at 0 degrees top dead center. You will end up with hard start condition setting initial timing at 0 degrees. Total timing should be about 31 or so on a stock engine and you may be able to get up to 36 with a performance cam

curious what the initial timing is at now after setting the total

Nice video, nice car.. I wish to share my years of experience with Chevy V8.. These comments are not meant to criticize anyone elses methods or procedures. This is just what I have learned over the years.. - Many comments here are confused that first it is set for initial timing, then changes it again for the total timing. I think he is setting the initial timing for a first start up after the distributor has been removed or disturbed. The most important timing is total timing as he demonstrated. For me, when starting an engine for the first time, I just rotate the distributor as someone is cranking it with the key to get it to fire up, then warm it up and move on to adjust the total timing somewhere in the mid to high 30s. Skipping the initial timing adjustment is just a preference. - Its best to clamp the inductive pickup clamp of the timing light closest to the spark plug and not near the distributor cap. Closer to the plug gives more realistic spark arrival at the cylinder as it does take time for the spark to travel through the plug wire. - I don't trust those adjustable timing lights. Many have given false or distorted readings. You are better off using timing tape or preferably a balancer with the scale stamped in it. Summit Racing has a selection of timing tape and balancers. - I made a pre-fabricated piece of metal to wedge into the idle screw stop to create a fast-idle. Fabricate the wedge to hold the fast idle at around 3000 RPM. This will free up one hand and allow you to focus on the task at hand. With the engine noise, heat and fan air blowing at you, you need both hands and brain free from distractions. - The total timing is different for many, but should be somewhere in the mid-high 30s. The variables include cam shaft, fuel delivery, octane and fuel type which may contain ethanol.. - I found the best way to find the optimum total timing is to start with it into the high 30s until it pings under load while driving under acceleration. Back down the total timing a degree at a time until the ping goes away. This will be the sweet spot. My big-block 454 likes it at 37 degrees.. Small block chevys with the smaller bore piston will come in around the mid 30s. - Because of ethanol fuel which burns hotter, I use a 160 degree thermostat. The lower temp reduces ping and allows more total timing. Also, to keep it cooler, I use as much aluminum components on the engine... ie radiator, water pump, intake etc... Ethanol fuel has really challenged these engines to run properly. The old Chiltons manuals give initial timing setting at idle which is essentially useless with todays fuel and any engine mods that it may have as described above. Total timing should be the focus. I hope this helps someone.. Again, not to criticize or claim 100 percent. Just from years of experience. 👍✌

This is the only video cone across explaining both timings and the more important one advanced timing thank you cheers

Exactly what was needed👌 Thanks a million bud😎 all the way in South Africa👌

The video is excellent, after completion just wondering if the timing will be advance to far when hooking up the vacuum lines that's the only thing I was hoping you would show at the end or is there nothing to be concerned about

thank you for taking the time to do this. very informative

Great video and explanation of setting the timing! Where did you have your engine idle set too when setting the initial timing?

I needed that, much appreciated! Somebody gotta help the rookies...

4th time I've watched this video. You explain these procedures so good that makes it easy to understand. I like your quadrajet video too. You helped me to set my way too rich choke on my 83 305 k10 pickup. Hope your doing well! Stay safe and keep the small block chevy videos coming

The timing for the 69 Corvette is TDC for the 350 except the 350 HP engine which is 8 degrees before TDC according to Chilton. That being said the small block chevy likes some advance at initial timing in a range between 4 to 8 degrees. To set total timing you will need a timing tape on the harmonic balancer if you don't have a timing light like in the video. I don't trust the lights anyway. I might have missed it in the video but the vacuum advance should be hooked back up for total timing. To address moving the distributor for total timing there is available an adjustable vacuum advance to dial in total advance. IMHO 36 degrees is a bit too much for a stock engine. 32-34 degrees seems to be the magic number. There are all kinds of cam shafts available for this engine so check with the manufacturer for total advance.

I think he did a fine job explaining how to set timing 5 🌟 🌟 🌟 🌟 🌟

Great video, very informative. I just purchased a 69 coupe with 350/300 with a mild street cam. Converted the distributor to HEI and now I want to set the timing due to engine not performing like a cammed 350 should. I understand all data/information provided, am I required to check the total advance timing again after I reconnect the vacuum line to distributor advance pot and unplug golf tie to carburetor vacuum line to ensure we don't have excessive (50+) advance time? Or should vacuum lines be reconnect for setting total advance timing? No flames intended, just want to perform my first ever timing of a vehicle!! Any words of wisdom will be welcomed, thanks Mike

Hop, as an owner of a 69 Vette I love your how to videos. Have you ever converted the cable driven tachometer to electronic? I would love to see a video on calibration and installation.

Nice Effort on the Video.

This is a great video that I will likely come back to and watch multiple times. Do you have any advice on converting a C5 from EFI to a carburetor with the overall goal of having a dual carb blower scoop. (Advice other than, don't do it). It's kinda of a dream passion project

Excellent video. I did feel like you were putting the light on number two wire but maybe your cap is different setup than my 350. I do have one clarification question. Should the vacuum be plugged back in after you set initial and before setting total timing because won’t that factor in to your desired 36 and therefore be more when plugged back in?

Is that a corrected hei dist cap? Looks like you pointed to the #2 position on the hei cap instead of #1