BOLTR: Inverter EXPLAINED | DuraPulse VFD

We use clicks on many machines... The Allen Bradley stuff is extremely expensive..

Up/Down buttons for speed are bullshit. Ditto for volume in a car. "You know what the customer wants? To complete 20 actions in 20 seconds instead of 1 action in 1 second." Ditto for microwaves. Remember when microwaves were just a dial, that automatically started the machine when you turned it past zero because it correctly presumes you want to heat food right fuckin' now and a few seconds head start is good practice? Nowadays you must use PRECISION control over your food. Dialin' fuckin NORAD launch codes into the machine, 20 digit beep booping horseshit when all I give a fuck about is the nearest 15 seconds.

Thanks a lot. I’m all messed up. Every time I tighten a screw, nut or bolt, I have to say “click”. I can’t even put the lid back on the peanut butter now.

You should do a walk through of the wall of shame. I'm willing to bet there's some good stories in there.

Hey Ave, at 11:36 those are DBC (direct bonded copper) substrates, which is a copper/ceramic/copper sandwich, where the ceramic is Al2O3 (alumina), maybe toughened with zirconia. It's actually pretty tough stuff, and despite their simplicity, they are very important in the miniaturization of power electronics. The cost of that module from Infineon by itself is a significant chunk of the cost of the whole product. I work as a technology developer engineer in automotive, and because I work on these bastards daily, I can tell you that a lot of work goes into designing them so they can fulfill their lifetime requirements. At least in automotive.

I've been teaching our techs and salespeople about the drives on our air compressors for almost a decade. Your explanations of drives is great. Technically sound and interesting. Thanks AvE

Usually, you can set the pulse frequency. I made the experience, that if you run them on say 2 kHz they have the annoying whimper of the vibrating coils but the Motor is WAY more efficient and torqie at low speeds. If you run the drive at 16 kHz, you won't hear anything, but the mechanical parts. This goes to the cost of efficiency. Some Drives give you the ability to have a dynamic switching frequency that adjusts with the current flow (at the most of them that have that feature, you can´t even turn it off). At low current ist uses a high frequency, but if you really need the torque it goes down to a lower switching frequency to get the best efficiency for the best comfort. And there is even more advanced stuff. One of my drives can use a white noise pattern for switching, to get the stress of the bearings (else you will see, the small indents from the switching the housing after some service years) and to get a softer run at low speeds.

Over the years, I think I've heard you explain AC->Rectified DC->Inverted DC a thousand times... Yet I always watch, might miss another "Canadian wood elf" gem.

They wrap the capacitors before slapping on the goo, else the original sleeve on the capacitor just breaks away and they end up flapping in the breeze. Nothing shady about the wrapping, just extra rigidity

you got me looking up VFDs and yet the biggest motor in the house is my hairdryer...

This is a true story. (I will let you decide the veracity of my story.) While working maintenance on wastewater pumping stations, we had a number of Gorman-Rupp pumps with General Electric vari-drive units. Having a problem with one panel, I contacted the original supplier to schedule a repair wizard to help round up the pixies. They sent a fresh faced young man who came into the building and exclaimed when he opened up the panel, "WTF!!! These units are older than I am!!" I then told him if he thought the drives were old, he should check out the stormwater pumps outside. Those beasts are older than me. The poor child didn't understand how we could run equipment on the dark side of a half century. Kids today just don't appreciate quality equipment....

this vijeo is more informative than the module that I did in 3rd year electrical school on VFD's. Nait should pay you to do some vijeos to accompany a bunch of the CBAT Modules, it would better train our trades. You likely already know that most of us 200 lbs gorillas are visual learners, abd those mods don't have many diagrams to show the internals of this stuff.

"Use it again" click clank click click as all the parts fall out.... love it

Gotta hear the story about that brass lug.

The little relay @5:26 is for run confirmation or fault status to a PLC or other equipment. It is programmable from the drive to turn on or off according to some condition.

You're the only person that can make pixie wrangling sound appealing to me. Even though some (most, really) of the terms fly over my head, for the first time, this stuff sounds interesting. Should've found this channel when I was in college still trying to graduate on engineering.

I worked on some really big vfd's 50hp+ and we found that the motor rotor would develop a charge and arc through the bearings eventually wearing them prematurely. We tried ceramic bearings and just ended up using a single brush to ground the rotor and prevent a charge build-up. Made the bearings last alot longer. If i remember correctly this problem only happened on the bigger stuff like 25 hp and up.

That was fun. I happen to be an AB test engineer (well, ok Rockwell Automation, as RA holds onto that AB meatball cause everyone liked it, but it is all RA). A couple things, those 3 white components are not diodes, CT's (Hall effect), that monitor the output phase currents to the motor. The MOV's would be on the input, as I don't believe your would put them on the motor side, but strange that there are 3, since the input is single phase. The rectifier is actually likely built into the IGBT, which they refer to as the powerpack, as it typically contains the "6-pack IGBT's" along with the rectifier diodes, and a single brake IGBT. That relay out be a general purpose relay, that the end user can do for many things, and would be configured through some menu on the drive. They are typically used to connect some type of start/stop circuit. As for not having a real "dial", the user would/could use a simple potentiometer, and the terminal block would provide the low voltage/power reference and the wiper wires back to an analog input. So, you can easily add a simple pot to control speed. This requires programming the drive for the type of control you wanted, which would be VIA an analog input. It is amazing how similar that complete drive looks to the drives I have worked on over the past 30+ years. I guess the use the old adage "Never let another's ideas evade your eyes, plagiarize" ! Thanks for that tear down, it made me almost want to go to work on Monday...

My god, you poor bastards over there. In Germany we can order 3 phase from a local electrician. Everyone in Chermany has one of these 3 phase sockets in their homes to power our kitchenovens and electric stoves. But I understand your struggle.

Once again you entertain us with showing us stuff pretty much as it happens when you didn't edit out when that circuit board dropped out of the housing and fell on your work table. Oh, and the AvE commentary is what we like too. When talking with my friends I describe you as a crazy Canadian whose mastery of the English language is fraught with extra juice.