Building a Fireproof Safe (pt. 1 of 2)

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Published 2021-12-06
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In this video I build a double walled fire proof safe with a four pin locking mechanism.

All Comments (21)
  • @obsgr1
    Justin, I hope you come back soon with some more interesting content. I hope the farm life hasn't taken you away from being an amazing content creator and engineer. Really want to see where you get to with the RV, or what your wife has designed that you have milled out of wood or steel. I'm sure there's a bunch of subscribers out there that miss your content.
  • @TRFerron
    Having both an engineering and security background some thoughts: - engineering is good, but you could have decoupled the metal on the outside from the inside. See how modern windows are made. So no thermal transfer occurs, or at least not so much. - maybe add some tabs or a way to secure the safe to the ground (if you don't weld it somewhere to the ground) Now to the main problem... - the main reason most of the cheap fireproof safes fail to do their job is not fire proofness - its water proofness. Normally the fire dept. arrives in under 30 minutes so a 60 minute fire proofness is more than enough. But the fire dept. uses mainly water to extinguish fire. Pouring it on for hours. So the documents and most valuables which don't like water are destroyed AFTER the fire by soaking for hours in water. Added later: At least we now could get Part II - making the fireproof safe waterproof ! :)
  • @cmbmx8343
    Hope your videos come back soon, miss watching them I've watched all your videos more than once
  • @hipairbrush1053
    Tip: put lipstick on the end of the locking pins to mark where to drill your holes. Great build any way you slice it. I would've drilled holes in the bottom so it can be bolted to the floor. They will often take the whole safe and leave.
  • When the linkage came together, it was simply beautiful. Well done.
  • @CheveeDodd
    It's always a good day when there's a new Rainfall Project. It's especially serendipitous today as it's raining and dreary here. Excellent work!
  • @tfildaed
    Having watched for years and knowing your abilities, skills, tools and ingenuity, I'm still amazed at how easy you made that look! Well done! Kudos to your photographer too!
  • @aserta
    Three things in order, just observations, not critique: 1. in a fire proof safe the core is decoupled from the outer skin, can't help that now tho. 2. the handle needs to either be a weak link itself (small pin and only a small portion of the shaft going out) or a weak link inside, otherwise it can be used against the mechanism 3. fireproof safes fail for the most unlikely reasons, which is when the fire department arrives, their concern is to stop the fire, not save your property (or better expressed, they're not specific about what's saved, they're specific about being safe whilst stopping the fire, saving lives being their biggest concern, theirs and that of the potential victims), so it needs to be water proofed, which means you need a gasket, which itself needs to be fire proof and water proof (yup, tall order). Source: i used to work with a safe company's engineer, learnt a few things from him.
  • @wrenchdoozer
    A new Rainfall Projects video is a great way to start the day. Thanks.
  • @jimmydiresta
    now alls ya need is black and gold paint ... and it'll be Choochi👊🏻 well done
  • @Mrcaffinebean
    Very nice! Although it appears that the locking mechanism is locked by the S&G lock bar. That’s fine normally but since your handle is fairly rigid it would likely be possible to force the mechanism open with a long bar. I believe most safes deal with this by having their handle be the weak link. If any attempts to force the handle open the handle just slips in the mechanism. I’m far for an expert but hopefully someone else here can add to this comment with a suggested fix. Maybe some kind of plastic joint that would slip. I enjoyed the video, keep up the great work!
  • Would've been cool if you had made the backing plate with plexiglass so you could see the linkages. A+ project, all the same.
  • @westweld
    Really ambitious project man your a good fabricator......im a welder also and for finding your locking bolt holes locations I use this stuff called dykem high spot blue its a non drying blue die and works great for stuff like this machinists use it to find high spots between mating parts just smear it on.
  • Nice build, and I really like the door's linkage. Future Tip - when you have to locate pin locations like that, you can "soot" the ends of the pin with your torch, or a daub of your wife's lipstick, to make sure you have a clear, clean impression. If you use your wife's lipstick, make sure you don't tell her you borrowed it. Wives do not take kindly to such things. Also, the fire rating drops precipitously when you don't insulate the door or use a fire seal around the door. All that insulation on the body is for naught if you don't seal the door and insulate it every which way you can. Some 1/4" drywall/gypsum can be layered in there, making sure to get under the linkage mechanism, and some Kaowool blanket can fill the voids without worry about tangling around the mechanism. The door seals are available COTS, and help to seal things when the heat rises, but also give a more finished appearance. Without those two details, the same isn't resistant to heat/fire no matter how much insulation you put in the hollow core of the body.
  • I am a safe and vault technician. You did an outstanding job on building this safe. Everything you did was well thought out and works well, I am thoroughly impressed. You do have one fatal flaw....you didn't add any relocker device(s). If someone knocks the dial off and punches out the lock with a hammer and punch the lock will no longer prevent the bolt from staying locked. A relocker will fire a bolt blocking the boltwork from moving if the lock was attacked in this fashion.
  • @Bfyobrian12
    “This is the Lockpicking Lawyer, and today we’re going to be taking a look at a fireproof safe built by a radish farmer.” 😂 Jk, amazing work!
  • @daviddauphin838
    the masking tape idea is great - use some lipstick on the pins = close the door and it will mark the tape. i have used this to mark drywall for outlet boxes -works great
  • @AndyCollier
    Are you going to add fire rope or something as a fireproof gasket on the door?
  • Something about your videos makes me feel proud to be a country boy builder. Nothing better than getting inspiration from the way you think, build, and communicate over a Saturday morning coffee. Hope all is well out there my friend 🤠
  • @SandyWalsh
    Best quote I saw on another channel "I love working with metal ... the glue dries so quickly"