I 3D PRINTED SHOES And WORE Them For A WEEK! (WHAT HAPPENED?!)

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Published 2022-09-07
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In today's video I attempt to design and 3D print a shoe from scratch and then wear it to the worlds largest sneaker event SneakerCon!

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Seth Fowler
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All Comments (21)
  • @Sneka97
    We definitely need a v2 of these!
  • RIP the Ender 3 in the trash 😔 Its actually a really good 3d printer for the price, wish I could have helped you out before you tossed it!
  • @themrworf1701
    Ender 3 is really good printer for the price. I use mine for 4 years now I think and it still works really good. You just need to make few adjustments when is out of the box. You shouldn't throw it away, you should have give it to someone who knows how stuff works.
  • @Flumphinator
    It doesn’t matter how big your printer is. You will always need to print something just slightly larger than your available area.
  • The ender usually needs adjusting to get working well initially, but it's a great printer. Absolutely a waste to throw it away
  • @JeffHertzberg
    Hey, if you haven't done so yet, get a larger diameter nozzle (eg. 0.8mm) and crank up your layer height to 0.4mm so you can prototype quicker. You could probably cut your print time in half, all while getting thicker, more sturdy walls.
  • @Scout339th
    If you ever intend to do a V2, I would HIGHLY recommend Gyroid infill, as the pressure will be dispersed evenly across the entire sole and much more uniform simply because of the 3D structuring of Gyroid infill. That and a couple more walls to allow for better sole rigidity. Edit: also probably a more conventional color for testing just so you don't draw attention to test shoes, but that's fully up to you
  • I've seen a lot of great comments about suggestions for a v2, so I figured I'd throw in my 2 cents as well-- - You can probably bump up the layer height from 0.2mm to 0.3mm which will give a MASSIVE reduction in the print time. - You might also want to try a 0.6mm nozzle, or increasing the extrusion width parameters with the 0.4mm nozzle. - You may want to try some of the 3D infill patterns in PrusaSlicer, such as Gyroid or Cubic for better foot support. - (The terminology got a bit confusing, as "support" generally refers to the external material that is removed after the object is printing and "infill" refers to the grid-like structure inside the object.) I am definitely a bit envious that your feet are small enough for a shoe to fit on a Prusa MK3S. I don't think I could print a shoe that fits me on mine. Looking forward to a part 2 (hopefully)!
  • @jedgi
    This kind of content is honestly what makes you stand out among others in the same niche. I didn't expect much going into this video after seeing the shorts, but boy was I wrong. I didn't know that something so simple, a 3d printed slide/shoe at that, can create a nice little narrative. Appreciate what you do, just like how you've re-crafted the $20 series to create more interest while listening to the feedback of your audience. Keep on keeping on beyond the norm!
  • @saultbauls
    My dude, this needs to be a series. There were a lot of learning discoveries for you and I'd love to see you make improvements and eventually make a decent shoe.
  • @Bolt_BDA
    Two tips to help you increase the durability of your next shoe print: 1 - If your going to print the shoe on it's side like you did with this version, increase the wall amount by at least 5, this will give the bottom of the shoe a thicker wall, trapping the air inside so you wont have any problems involving the shoe deflating. 2 - Play around with Infill patterns! Some of them can be pretty shitty when it comes to sustaining heavy weights so it's all about finding that perfect pattern as well as the percentage.
  • This definitely needs to be a series! This was super interesting to watch and I'd love to see you iterate on the design to make some actual good, comfy 3d printed shoes
  • @PadreDePato
    Would love to see v2 of the ‘fear of clogs’
  • Going overboard on the supports really hurts your print-time. Also go for more infill, because that was not much at all. I'd also try to bump up the printspeed, with flexible filament you can try pushing 40mm/s, especially with a direct drive machine like you have. All those things combined will result in a more comfortable shoe in like half the print time
  • @lykanix1758
    Throwing the Ender 3 away was such a waste. It takes a while to get them printing correctly, but I have two of them that work great and I have one of them set up with a direct drive mod for flexible filaments. Should have put in a lot more effort or at least donated it somewhere.
  • I think printing the soles and printing the uppers separately and then gluing them together would probably be quicker, allow for some adjustment also give you the ability to add arch support. It is a very cool project however, 3D printers are really almost becoming a staple of a lot of households it seems, I’m going to have to buy one at some point soon
  • @StoicGore
    I used to 3d print Crocs and heels for my X-wives doll(1/12th size) company. Always wanted to do life size models and this motivates me to try. Thanks for the video!
  • @Skylionfpv
    Interesting concept I think if you would have done maybe 40-50% infill with either the cubic or gyroid pattern they would have been alot more comfy in the soles, the heel problem could be easily fixed by widening the back of the shoe by maybe 10mm?
  • @aamir1141
    I'm glad I found this video. I've been designing my own pair of shoes for months now, trying out different methods of making a sole from scratch including 3D printing them out of a flexible material. So far, I've found that coating the sole in something like latex, silicone, or rubber will give it more strength and durability while maintaining flexibility.
  • @richard--s
    In case you haven't done this already: Well, use more infill. That will make the sole stiffer and not so like a water balloon ;-) ... You can adjust that in the slicer setting. A slicer is that program that cuts your design in horizontal slices for printing (e.g. Prusaslicer for your prusa printer). And there you can adjust the 3D structure of the infill pattern and the density (10% or 20% for example). But the infill pattern is orinted relative to the build plate and not relative to the shoe orientation in space ;-) So just pick an infill pattern that varies along the height and you would get some compromise for dampening in many directions and some of them will help you, you should not fall through your shoe to the hard ground ;-) And you could print it with 3 or more outer walls to make it more robust against puncturing. The standard are 2. But it takes time. And it gets stiffer, but that could let it break instead of bend, maybe there where you bend your shoe while walking... But it would take at least a day longer when you had 3 days for one shoe - and you have so much volume to fill in the sole... And make the heel wider when that was a pain. Maybe make the shoe around your heel higher. I think, it was too low on your heel, that could hurt. And expand whatever was too small too on your shoe. That are things that you can change "easily". It's more difficult to find a material like "the same, but more robust against wear"... You would have to start from scratch - more or less - with the search for materials. Make a collab with 3D filament makers and let these experts do their job, they should know what to pick ;-) Easy for you ;-) There are flexible filaments that are more flexible - and others that are stiffer. Good filaments have something like a number for the flexibility to compare them. But that might not do much with wear and tear and just make the overall shoe more stiff? It could break instead of bending... It's a trade-off as so often in engineering... Make a test sole piece, where you can see how flexible and how stiff it is against standing on it and against bending - with different materials and different infill patterns (orientation! The same orientation on the build plate as the final shoe, don't print it flat on the printer or you would get different results later with your shoe print when that is not flat on your printer). And you can test the material against wear and tear against rough concrete walls or even sand paper... (I sound almost like an expert, but no, I just do 3D printing as a hobby and I watched your experiences with your new shoes ;-)