99% of Beginners Don't Know the Basics of Router Bits

▼EXPAND FOR TOOL LINKS and INFO▼ Watch This Video Next - How to Use a Router (basics for beginners) https://youtu.be/xLxCEBb-74s Tools in this video: Whiteside 4 Router Bit Set - amzn.to/4bjnN66 Bosch 6 Piece Router Bit Set - amzn.to/3y1qwCN Bosch 15 Piece Router Bit Set - amzn.to/3y5JJ6w 3/8 inch Roundover Bit- amzn.to/3wudopj 1/4 Straight Compression Bit - amzn.to/4boQSNl 3/4 inch Straight Bit - amzn.to/3QwrYDD Dovetail Router Bit - amzn.to/4aYz8sz MicroJig Clamps - amzn.to/3wuK4iq Juice Groove Bit - amzn.to/3y5ahor Miniature Router Bit Kit (for small rounders, etc.) amzn.to/3y59ILl Mini Router Table Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store/benchtoproutertable Full Size Router Table Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store/routertableplans Milwaukee M18 Cordless Router - acmetools.pxf.io/9g2bvY DeWALT 20v Cordless Router - amzn.to/3UHaY02 DeWALT Fixed and Plunge Base Router - amzn.to/4dlSMAn Bosch Fixed and Plunge Base Router - amzn.to/3UKgIWT Kreg Set Up Bars - amzn.to/3QvmeKf Crafted Elements Templates - craftedelements.com/ Kreg Radius Templates - amzn.to/4b0KyMt Bench Cookies - amzn.to/44uQtae 12 pack Hockey Pucks - amzn.to/44t5oSa Walnut Router BIt Organization Tray - www.731woodworks.com/store/router-bit-organizing-t… If you use one of these Amazon and other affiliate links, I will receive a commission on qualifying purchases. 📲 Text DEALS to 1 (731) 207-7151 to sign up for my Tool Deals SMS Alerts All of my Build PLANS: www.731woodworks.com/store Greatest Free Gift I've Ever Received: story4.us/731Woodworks Jumpstart Your Own Woodworking Business in Less than 90 Days - sawduststartups.com/ My Tool Company - faithvalleytools.com/ The full list of tools and supplies I recommend can be found on my website: www.731woodworks.com/recommended-tools Greatest Free Gift I've Ever Received: story4.us/731Woodworks Join the TUBAFOUR NATION through Patreon to get access to exclusive member only behind the scenes videos, member only livestreams, exclusive discounts, and other cool member only perks! www.patreon.com/731woodworks Some other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe to our email Newsletter to get new content alerts, sales, and more! mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsle… Easy to Follow Build Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter

One MAJOR THING that you should be aware of and mistakenly said in this video. When putting the bit into the router, DO NOT put the bit in all the way until it bottoms out. When you do that and then tighten the collet, the collet does not have room to fully tighten on bit. Bottom the bit out and then back it out about an eight of an inch. I SPEAK FROM EXPERIENCE OF HAVING A BIT FLY OUT WHILE USING MY PALM ROUTER!! Luckily the bit came out and flew across the garage, putting a couple gouges into a garbage can before bouncing off the garage door and landing on the floor. The only warning was that the router had a slight vibration for only about a second before it spit the bit out. I was VERY LUCKY that it did not come back at me.

8:30 Rather use the round side of the router base than flat side. When using the flat side any rotation of the router will push the router bit away from the guide line. In your case, your slot/hole will not be straight. On the other hand, when using the round side of the router base, it does not matter if you rotate the router as long as the round side of the router base stays at the guide. The cutting line will stay straight anyway. Great video! Greetings from Switzerland 🇨

Thanks, very good. Two little things to add... Don't insert a bit all the way to the bottom and tighten the collet. The bit can get locked in and be very difficult to remove. And some collets need to be loosened and then unscrewed even further to turn the bit loose.

1/2 inch shank tends to vibrate less than 1/4 inch reducing chatter. Also I never set a bit against the stop, on some routers when you do this you cannot tighten as tight as possible. I always seat the bit and lift it about an 1/8 inch or so so when tightening so the collet can clinch down all the way.

So true. This is a great video. A router is actually a very dangerous tool which usually comes with minimal instructions. Some of them (including high end ones) have pour design for such basic activities as changing the bits or collets. Dust extraction is always hopeless. I've been using them for about 40 years, but when I started I didn't know a thing and there was really no help out there. I consider myself very lucky. Finally, safety glasses and respirator always the top tips.

Very useful, especially outside=anticlockwise - inside=clockwise. Thanks for taking the time to make this

Good informative video for beginners. I’ve been using routers for nearly 50 years as a boatbuilder and have found that beginners are not comfortable using routers and shapers. Good instruction and practice is what is needed. By the way, it is break, not brake.

As a beginner, I don't know what you may have missed but I now know more than I knew before watching your video. You don't know what you don't know, thank you for a good start.

I made one of these mistakes today while cutting out a sink hole in a counter top. After cutting the sides with a circular saw I used the router to cut the rounded corners with a 1/4 inch straight bit. I tried to cut all the way through and after burning my way through a half inch of it I stopped and decided to just make multiple passes at shallower depths. Worked much better! One thing you did mention but I don't think you stresses enough is going the right direction when routing. Most of your tips are great for someone setting up a shop with jigs and routing tabes and such. Most beginners/ amateurs buy a router for small projects or worksite jobs so most are using them freehand and direction makes a world of difference.

After buying a Craftsman 20v cordless 1/4" impact driver a few years ago in a Black Friday sale, I have been buying additional 20v cordless tools as needed. It may not be what other woodworkers would buy but they serve my needs. I like that I can take a fully charged battery & slap it on a tool & instantly get to work. Two years ago, a cordless trim router would have been handy for cutting mortises for door hinges where I had no access to 120v power. I now have a cordless Craftsman 20v trim router for in shop & as well for on-site cutting chores. I have other bigger corded routers for in shop work.

Good video, Lots of info in a small package. A couple of comments:. Because most routers use a tapered collet to hold the bit, the bit is drawn downward when the collet is tightened. If the bit is on the bottom of the collet hole, the collet can't be completely tightened and the bit can come out during use. I have a box that proves this point. You can see the botched groove where the bit came through the side because it wasn't tightened correctly. Always have the bit at least 1/8 inch from the bottom before tightening. 1/4 inch is better. Tightening the bit hard when bottomed can also cause it to jam in the collet and be extremely hard to get out. Thanks for the good work!

Awesome video as always! One thing I’d love to see addressed in beginner router videos is the proper way to set up the plunge feature. Everyone seems to gloss over the set up or go through it quickly. Even the directions that come with the router aren’t thorough. When I got my Triton it was so frustrating as I understood the basics but had so much trouble dialing it in! I know new plunge users would appreciate a clear tutorial on the setup!

3:28 1) if you bottom out, lift the bit about 1/8". 2) most router bits over 1/4" cutting area, usually have a curve at the shaft to cutterhead. You have to make sure that curve is completely exposed.

on your kickback clip you’re feeding from the wrong side. work right to left on a table and use the starter pin

Thanks. 67 and just bought my first Router Table. Learning loads. The L finger thing is brilliant.

A tip I give to new users is, when putting a bit in the router(round over, trim, molding ETC) do not push it right down,as there is a curve on the shaft and they have been known to come loose.To cut that out,I always use a rubber ring washer (same size as the shank) so it never happens

Bench cookies - $40-$60 for a four pack. Hockey pucks - $40 for a twelve pack. It was an easy choice for me as the hockey pucks fulfill my Canadian mandate to have something related to hockey in the workshop.

Great video Matt! One other thing to mention - if you're going to buy a router table, buy a good one, like the Bosch one or don't bother. I had an old Craftsman one that was my Dad's, and while it was metal, it was too thin, so the metal would flex or bow, causing the fence not to stay square to the table, or the fence to twist / rack, it was just...bad) and both my Dad and I found ourselves constantly trying to find ways NOT to use it or having to modify it to make repeatable cuts. Bought the Bosch one on prime day, and I am glad I did. It actually works really well. As an alternative and commonly available budget option for router bits, the Freud Diablo bits are about the same quality as the Bosch bits. At least here in the northeast, Home Depot carries Diablo and Lowe's carries Bosch, and both brands offer a wide variety of bit shapes and sizes. I would also mention that if you're ordering or buying any bit which has a bearing on it, make sure you buy an extra bearing if it doesn't come with one. Some do and some don't but if you have the spare on hand, you'll probably never need it. Also, you really need to pay attention to the RPM settings. Since the routers I have with variable speed typically don't tell you the RPM on the dial and just have a 1 through 5, read the manual, find where it tells you you what number translates to what RPM, and keep it handy. Here's a brief story about how I learned that all of those matter, in a single Saturday while building my previous desk: The first piece of oak 1x3 got ruined when the bearing seized, causing the bit to skip / jump instead of gliding along, just enough to chip out a chunk. My mistakes were using older bit and taking too deep of a cut in one pass, with the RPM set WAY too high. Speed 4 on the Craftsman router I had borrowed from my Dad was definitely not the same RPM as speed 4 on my Rigid trim router. It turns out that speed 4 on the Craftsman was 24,000 RPM but the bit was only rated for 18,000. So, you know, only about 33% over the rated speed for the bearing, which is why it seized. For context, and how I made this mistake - speed 4 on my Rigid trim router was 18,000 and I just didn't think to check. On the second piece, with a new bearing on the bit after gently dressing the cutting edges and the RPM correctly set this time routed it no problem...but it split when I tightened the last screw. It was one of "those days". My mistake this time was forgetting that order of operation matters. After cutting the round over on the top edge, where the piece split did not have a whole lot of material left and I should have screwed the piece on first then routed it in place. After the third trip to the store and doubling up on my "stupid tax" for the day, it was finally done.

Great video. I am a little intimidated by routers as I am relatively new to this. You articulated what I need to know well. Thank you