Replacing Ford 8n Clutch and Brakes | Restoration Pt 2

Finally, something I can make a constructive comment on! When replacing a ring gear on the flywheel, car, truck, or tractor...Block up the flywheel, supporting it by placing the blocks under the ring gear. Start heating the ring gear with a torch, and very shortly the flywheel will drop of it's own weight. When re-installing, place the ring gear in place on the flywheel, and heat it as before. It will drop into place sooner than you might expect, but keep a hammer handy to make sure it is all the way on. One last thing, clutch mounting bolts are special! They have a shoulder, which is a fine fit to the pressure plate and a counter bore in the flywheel. Using ordinary bolts could well cause a vibration, or in the case of a high performance engine, cataphoric failure.

Andrew, it's really cool that you are learning to repair your own vehicles and things. Dad taught me early on when I showed interest, and I made it my life's work. I'm a retired mechanic & handyman. You would benefit by adding a big slide hammer puller and a rosebud torch tip to your tool arsenal. The puller you can make cheaply, or make a few of various sizes for different jobs. I use them both to push and pull. Remember that when something seems glued together, a single heating and cooling can help it gently separate. I strongly recommend that you purchase repair manuals for anything you work on. They'll tell you about the special stupidity of certain engineers who made their devices non-standard, and will help you NOT break things. I sometimes learned the hard way. We didn't have the sealants we have today way back when, so I used thich wheel bearing grease to seal fiber gaskets. It made it really easy to remove them ten years later when the water pump died again, lemme tell ya. And I always started with the brake adjuster side of the shoes. Put the spring on and angle the shoes to get the adjuster in place, THEN open them up and put them behind the axle. It's much easier fighting springs when the other pieces are all free to move around.

You mentioned in the video about the water in the bell housing and a drain. If you go back to the 17.05 point in the video when you're installing the flywheel there's a little hole on the bottom, those fords come with a cotter pin going from inside outward to help keep that hole from clogging and allowing it to drain. I guess someone had already split the tractor before and didn't put one in there. It's no big deal not having it, but it does actually work. I have a 1948 ford 8n that I'm working on, they are nice and practical little tractors. You're doing a great jod.👍

well done young man you're doing an amazing job, keep them coming.

To Hanna and Dad, great job on the early 8N. I'd love to see the video of the end result. I have a Ford 2N, made during WWII that had steel wheels, no starter, generator or battery because of the war. It has all of those now and is a daily worker on my hobby farm. I also have a Ferguson TO20 that helps the 2N. I gotta tell you, I have never seen such mouse infestation as you had in the clutch area of your 8N. But what a thrill when your engine started puffing smoke and finally roared to life and actually would idle! Great video and thanks for the perseverance to do that work while it was visibly cold weather. Really good to see people keeping the old iron running. Keep up the good work!😊

What a neat project. My neighbor has one of these tractors but he would not sell it to me. It has sat for a long time. I have never done mechanical work like that. I think it is great that you are bring this tractor back from the dead. When I was in the Air Force I worked in maintenance but I was just a painter. :trophy-yellow-smiling::trophy-yellow-smiling::trophy-yellow-smiling::trophy-yellow-smiling::trophy-yellow-smiling::cat-orange-whistling:

Love what you are doing you seem very knowledgeable for a young lad and the tractor will look great when completed Best Wishes from England UK

Great video!

The Throughout Bearing is not to be greased (19:43), if you grease it sand will stick to the grease and wear the bearing/shaft and restrict it's ability to slide. As mention there is a coulter pin in the Bell housing that vibrates as you drive the tractor. this vibration keeps the small hole open. These tractors has end seals that leak, by keeping the hole open it allows oil to drain, saving the clutch from becoming saturated. Was the transmission changed out, the large hole above the starter has been repaired. A nice repair , hard to see any of the damage.

I just realized how young you are great job buddy your doin a excellent job .

Great video. Your a hell of a mechanic.

You're bout smart as they come ain't you! All that work and you pulled it together with bolts! If it don't buckle up then you definitely don't force it! Smart man tight there

Use heat to remove starter ring gear put flywheel in freezer about a hour or two and heat new ring gear it will fall on

I think we all have that one screwdriver we hammer on. 😂

10-4 on the keep them coming. Great job how you explain it all. Thanks

You are quite the "Craftsman". Where did you get the sealant tube squeezer? Great video!

Looking good 👍

When I replaced my 8N’s ring gear, I drilled the old one, then split it with a chisel. Then I put the flywheel in the freezer for about an hour. While it was cooling, I lay the new ring gear on some bricks (evenly) in my yard, and built a fire over it. Once the ring gear was red hot, it slipped easily onto the cold flywheel. As soon as the ring gear was in place, I cooled it with water. Just like back in the old days of fitting steel tires onto a wooden wagon wheel.

You are a very knowledgeable young man! Thank you for the video 😊

Looking really good bud keep up the good work