Have You Bought The Wrong Size Bike? | How To Get The Perfect Bike Fit

Published 2023-02-22
Do you feel like your bike isn't the right size for you? Maybe it's a small matter of the handlebars feeling too far away or does the whole bike just feel...off? We got advice from physiotherapist & leading bike fitter, Phil Burt, who shares in detail what areas can be altered so you can get the perfect bike fit for you, including setting the perfect reach!

0:00 - Intro
0:27 - Stem length
1:22 - Saddle position
2:38 - Handle bar width
3:03 - Frame sizes
4:04 - Crank length
5:44 - The correct handle bar width
9:29 - The right stack height
11:03 - The Stem
11:41 - Try before you buy
12:08 - Buying online

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What's your most common bike fit issue? 🤔 Let us know in the comment section below! 💬

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All Comments (21)
  • @gcn
    What's your most common bike fit issue? 🤔 Let us know in the comment section below! 💬
  • @dsm1891
    you should get one of your average joe riders in for a bike fit, so Phil can demonstrate common problems people face
  • @ProfeTa6
    Important note here as a cycling physio myself: You can definetly make changes to the bike to fit you better BUT you can also work on your body to fit the bike better. Flexibility/mobility and core muscle endurance are really important factors for a successful bikefit. Also unless the fit is competely off, small differences won´t be a deal breaker; the human body is adaptable and can deal with variations as long as they aren´t absurd. Trust your body and give it time to adjust before any drastic changes.
  • @framue
    I would argue that a 80mm stem on a small or x-small is just one size down from the design size for that frame and therefore a total reasonable bike fitting adjustment.
  • @rockcycle824
    As a short person, easily the biggest improvements in comfort on the bike have been 1) smaller handlebar width and 2) shorter crank length. It seems that so many stock bikes come with the same bar width and crank length from XXS Frames to Medium frames, despite the fact that the riders will have significantly different bodies.
  • About eight years ago I had a professional bike fit with Garry Kirk. I went to Garry with lots of pains - neck, shoulders, wrists, lower back, knees, pins and needles in my feet. After a few hours, buying a new saddle, narrower bar and shorter stem, some other adjustments I was pain free. I could cycle for hours in drops without any pain. I was able to generate more power - FTP “increased” by 80W!!! Last year when considering a new bike I went to see Garry again as my needs and mobility changed. The bike I got is a size 56 cm. ALL manufacturers recommend a 54cm frame with the dimensions they ask for. But none checks how flexible you are, what your goal is, arm length and more. I have a bike that suits me perfectly. I said it many times to my club mates that money spent on bike fit was the best bike related investment ever.
  • @andyboxish4436
    Any time you have Phil on, it's such a wealth of incredibly valuable information. Thank you GCN and Phil!
  • I appreciate the input about bar width. What really help Simon's video about making your bike more comfortable and Emma's video for shorter riders. Thanks for the video.
  • I've said this before on previous bike fit videos but the biggest problem is the bike manufacturers themselves. The recommended size for a lot of people based on height and/or inseam is generally wrong and the bike will then also be supplied with the wrong size stem, handlebars and crank to match some arbitrary average figure. I would never buy another bike off the shelf now as I have to replace so many parts it just makes more sense to buy the right size frame from the start and build it up from there.
  • Phil's fit philosophy is spot on...and will summarize what I believe based upon several decades of riding.... - Narrower handlebars are generally more comfortable and faster and yes handlebar width affects reach. Larger bikes....I ride a XL...generally come with too wide a handlebar. - For an aging road cyclist even with longer legs...I am Si's size...shorter cranks are better on multiple levels from hip impingement to pelvis angle on the saddle and ability to rotate the torso down and ride more aero. - Frame size is NOT necessarily tied to body size. I am Si's size and I ride 1 frame size up for more comfort versus more aero. Lance who is 5'9 ish raced on a 58cm frame throughout his career and Si at 6'1" rides a 56. - Endurance geometry...what Phil said again, works best for the 'average' rider and not ex-pros like Si. Pros were pros for a reason. Pros throughout their riding career, rode out of the wind with less steep torso angle than most mortals can tolerate. I could ride Si's bike maybe even without a saddle adjustment but after 20 miles my body would hurt because I am older and less flexible, and I am fit.
  • Can highly recommend James Thomas in Richmond - just a legend in bike fitting. Excellent videos on Cade Media too. But manufacturers are at fault here. A client should be able to select bar width, casette, saddle, stem length, crank length BEFORE you buy....all stock items that can be used as the bike is built!!
  • @dblissmn
    I started off with my current bike in 2007 with a 90mm stem, inverted. I'm glad the bike shop did this, because subsequent improvements in lower back flexibility despite some degeneration that was spotted on MRI have left me with a 110mm stem the right way up in combination with slightly greater seat height.
  • Yeeeeeeesssssss! I almost bought a bike last week from a friend that is a Medium. My current bike is an Extra Small because I'm short short. I could ride the Medium, it was beautiful, a great deal -- but it felt unstable, I couldn't control it and the seat post was non-existent. This video is hella helpful. Thanks!
  • @238949
    Great to see Phill again, thanks for all the helpful advice, if GCN and Katie K both trust him then so should we :)
  • @peteappleby2291
    Great point about the bars often being too wide. I'm hearing more and mor from bike fitters that it's very common for bikes to come with bars that are too wide. Across many different brands.
  • @rokker333
    Good man. After switching to a new bike last August had exactly the issues with setback and handlebar width. Took me some time to figure out. Even tough Stack and Reach in bike geometry was similar, only slightly more sportive, had massive lower back pain with the new bike.
  • I purchased a bike from an online only manufacturer. I measured my old bike and compared it with the new bike specs and purchased based on that. When I got the bike delivered, I set the saddle height and lowered the bars 10mm. I've been very comfortable for 3 years now.
  • @Afrikakorps68
    Years ago, an UK cycling magazine sent a guy with his bike to 4-5 different bike fitters. Results were surprisingly different with saddle height/seatback, stem length, and handlebar width ranging +/-10mm or more...
  • Watched the video, moved the seat on the stationary bike and WOW. Thanks!