Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor UPDATE, UPGRADE & IR RESPONSE

Super helpful video! Thank you for posting

Good work! For the oil drain, I ran piping, a ball valve, and a 45 elbow to aid in draining the oil away from the tank without making a mess. Makes changing the oil much easier, though a little extra oil is needed to bring the level up dude to some filling up the pipe first.

Great info. I saw the first video of you explaining everything about the compressor. And well, i needed a compressor asap so I went to TS and bought the same one. Just had it for two weeks and bam!!! The motor is having issues. After seeing the part where you blow air into the motor, i had an idea of turning the switch on simultaneously blowing it with air. And it worked! 😬 dont know if it will work for good! Should’ve not purchased it! Damn im dumb!! Great videos man! Thks for the help!

The best upgrade I did for my compressor was install a after cooler, and water trap, stops moisture in your air tank, affecting air tools, spray painting, etc.

I just put in the same TS4N5 compressor in my shop yesterday. I did loosen the belt a bit in hopes to avoid any motor problems. It seemed like it was just too tight. I wired it with 10GA THHN and conduit on a 30A breaker. I also added a mechanical hour meter. Seems like a good machine, but time will tell.

I use vibration isolator pads under the compressor feet instead of having them on the ground directly, and also a 90* fitting with a pipe and ball valve past the circular base to make draining easy on my IR compressors.

Nice upgrade Tom. I just did a pm on my IR. Its basically the same unit just a little older. I have always been worried about the original motor. I know alot of folks had issues with them.

Interesting... I've been running the same 5HP single stage comp for 25 years with no motor issues. It was used when I got it and I've run the snot out of it... It's never had the oil changed either. I'm getting ready to put an IR 2-stage pump on it because I need the air pressure for my mill... I'm half expecting the motor to fry because of the change, but I hope it doesn't... If it does, I'll go with a higher HP and get a contactor like you've installed. I think that's a great upgrade... Glad to see IR reached out to make it right.

you definatly should get an aftercooler,, My brother did and its amazing the water it removed.

Maybe of interest to some. I connected a tee off of my existing pressure switch and wired another contact switch for 120 volts to a receptacle box, to this is plugged a 20 inch box fan hung next to the compressor head and motor. Each time the compressor starts and runs so does the cooling fan.

Great info! Hopefully that's the last time you have to work on it for a long while.

Better then most apprentices

Nice mag start switch.

I bought this same compressor last year (February 2022) as an upgrade from a 30 gallon Quincy QTS-3 that I got for scrap price from work in 2018. It served me well for 4 years doing light duty work but I was getting worried about the tank because I had welded a patch on it to cover a rust hole and I didn't want to take a chance on it blowing up. Anyway, the 80 gallon IR hasn't seen much heavy use yet and it hasn't given me any fits. I purchased the 3 year extended warranty just because of what I've read about the motors going bad, but so far so good. The extra volume is good for blowing out my water hoses before putting them up for the winter whereas I'd have to wait for the 30 gallon Quincy to pump up. But I'm hoping to get some more use out of it such as a sandblasting cabinet and plasma cutter. It holds 150 psi very well since I installed a different drain valve with thread tape. They don't use any tape or sealant at the factory on the drain valves for some reason. I just shut the air supply valve and the disconnect off when I'm done with it and when I need to air up a tire I've always got air ready to go! Good compressor!

Not sure if you mentioned it but please check your motor terminal voltage. If you are at the bottom end of the motors rating it will be really hard on the windings, switch and capacitors which are the weak link in a 1phase motor. Make sure all of your connections are good and tight, as well conductors are properly sized.

Nice job, im hooking up a starter on my compressor and im not sure what wires to use for the switch. You said it comes off L1. Does it go back to A1 after the switch?

I've watched your original video some time ago when I was eyeing compressors. I just finished my shop and bang for the buck this is by far the cheapest, most maneuverable highest cfm compressor for it's category, BUT I'm wondering if the motors are just undersized. Reviews on Northern tool and similar sites seem hot or miss on motor failure. In case I run into the need to make a replacement at some point could you cover how to select a replacement and roughly how that process goes? Thank you

The wire gauge and breakers are exactly the reason for so much failure on these motors. The crank up amps are the kick start of this motor, smaller wire other than 8 gauge will brown out on startup. This motor needs all available amps to start it, running amps are one thing, have enough amps on start up is another. If you have any thing less than 8 gauge wire from the breaker box, your headed for motor failure.

Can I get the link of the motor you bought and mag switch? The links are not working! Thanks! Great video. I just bought this compressor at a clearance and it has a damaged motor, figures!

I put a ball valve on my drain, it's easier to reach under there and pull the lever. I was about to go to Tractor Supply and buy this exact compressor. Maybe I'll check the date on the one they have and make sure it's the updated motor.