This Broke One Week out of Warranty... Can I Fix it for Cheap?

Hey folks, if you're encountering a similar problem and your monitor has an external power brick, it may be worth replacing that first. These often fail before the monitor's internals, and are much simpler to replace. If you're having trouble finding an exact replacement, often you can get away with using one with EXACTLY the same voltage and the same or higher amperage. YMMV though; LMG isn't assumes no liability, this is not financial advice, etc :p

Engineers are becoming more and more precise with when the product fails immediately after the warranty expires. Truly a technological marvel.

Linus Drop Tips went 28 seconds without dropping a thing, new world record

With your platform it's an awesome move to push more "fix-it-yourself" content, build that sustainable mindset, and also one thing that I liked is the fact that you said that you can't break something that is already broken. My brother with that advice got me to fixing my own stuff, keep that content coming.

I think the engineering involved in making products work until just after the warranty runs out should be a story within itself.

Just some remarks: - The small PCB is NOT the power supply for the LVDS board, but for the panel back light. - Therefore the power supply is on the main board - This monitor uses an external power brick, so the supply is not the mains, but about 19..24V. - For the VESA mount to work correctly, you dont need to fix the metal box inside. The weight of the monitor is hold by the plastic housing. The box just behaves like captive nut. - If you are not afraid to grab a soldering iron, I recommend to replace all biggest electrolitic capacitors on the main board. I have the suspition, that it will solve the problem for less than 10 CAD. - I repared a lot of the early Samsung monitors that were prone to the dried out electrolitics. a set of those Elcos was about 6 EUR.

The irony of "what's the worst that could happen" being said literally as Linus is in the process of smacking the screen with a screwdrivers is not lost on me

The dual complementary MOSFET driving the backlit is the part you needed to replace. It looks like a chip with either six or eight pins. The designer make it working at 80 °C; if one places a 4 °C/W heatsink on it, it will no longer fail and the next piece in line to fail is the main rectifier capacitors. Thanks for the video... Anthony

Can't believe we're at the point where Linus dropping something feels nostalgic

Even if it's out of warranty I'll always reach out to the company to see if they'll replace it. The worst they can say is no but some companies understand that helping customers out can build brand loyalty.

That "spend 3 hours troubleshooting cables" thing is so real. I helped a buddy build a PC a few years back, and it didn't boot. Half an hour later, I figured out that the power button in his case was busted

When you replaced the board for the first time, you may have accidentally shorted the circuit to the ground by placing it on the metal back side of the screen. This caused the power adapter to go into protection mode and disable the power output. Another thing to note is that the plastic case at the back is responsible for holding the metal case in place, which is why there are no screws.

I wonder how many products break right out of the warranty

Something to keep in mind. Alot of newer monitors, lg, Asus, etc, the external power supply can actually go into a fault state when power spikes repeatedly. Example, a brownout, or sudden power loss. All that's needed is it to be completely unplugged on the AC side long enough to discharge the capacitors, and it'll exit the fault state and start right back up

The circuit board angle mounting helps prevent excess emi interference with other devices. I learned this while making a DIY Wacom Cintiq (years ago, before they became affordable).

One of the SUPER easy things to fix on these boards that goes bad often and can be replaced even by a beginner is caps. If you see any swollen caps in old electronics that are having issues like this you can often just replace those and get yourself back up and running.

When I did TV repair years ago, having different revisions of mainboards could cause issues. Could have garbled output, no output at all, OSD/menu would not work correctly or hardware differences in where headers were located, differences in pin counts or even the mainboard being matched with the panel. Worth making sure you get the same revision of the board you are trying to replace or at least verifying it will work as a direct replacement.

With regard to the bracket with the vesa mount holes being taped on, I would imagine that the plastic back is, ultimately, what's keeping it in place. The tape will just be holding it there until assembled.

2:09 I have one of these thingies that I swear came off my index but I could never figure out what it was or where it goes and it has been bugging me forever. I kept it and didn't lose it and it's been over a year and I would see it often enough that I remember what it looks like and immediately recognized it as the "mystery thingy." I dug it out of the box I finally threw it in just a week ago and finally managed to find the slots that it goes into and restore it to its rightful place. Glad that this LTT video solved a totally unrelated problem I've had for such a long time.

Please make more episodes like this, help further the idea of DIY and restoration projects in the electronic community