Don't Make a 2x4 Workbench

Get the plans for the construction lumber WORKBENCH PLANS HERE: scottwalsh.co/products/construction-lumber-workben… Features 20 step-by-step pages, 3d renderings throughout, and a cutlist for the easiest build possible.

I have always used solid core doors for my bench tops. Very straight, very stable, and very cheap if you take your time finding bargains. My best score ever was getting ahold of several 10 ft long, 24 inch wide conference room doors that had no holes in them and they were more than 2 inches thick.

At 71, I've built a lot of work benches over the years, using different designs. One of the ones I like the most is using a solid core interior door, with a 1X3 oak perimeter for the top. You can use any type of replaceable top on that, smooth hardboard works well. I also like 4X4's for leg construction, and I've used different bracing, shelving, enclosure to hold it square. The more experience you get, the better the bench(s) seem to get. There is no wrong way, and don't be afraid to experiment!! Nice job on this one BTW!! 8) Peace --gary

I'm not sure you understand what "anaphylactic shock" means

In lieu of the roller that has to get tossed, use some kind of plastic card. It'll spread the glue even thinner, reduce waste from drips during clamping, and you can just wipe off or break off the wet or dried glue when you're done and reuse the plastic card.

You can actually avoid cupping by installing your lumber with the grain facing the right direction. The assumption, looking at the board, is that it will cup "with the grain", but reality is the opposite of the appearance. The long grain will pull away from the short grain, so if your end looks like )))) the cupping will take place on the right side even though you would probably assume it would occur on the left. Install the bark-side of the board down, I noticed you had about half bark-down and half bark-up on both your old bench, which is why only half of it cupped so badly. When making glue-lams, you actually want to alternate grain )))((()))((( so they will naturally tug against one another and prevent warping.

I appreciate the humor and reflections on what didn't work on past builds.

10:50 re: dents in your worktop - you can take pretty significant dents out of softwood with a damp cloth and an iron. If the damage is beyond what you can steam out, you can always route out a shallow recess and patch it (like a butterfly inlay)

I have been using 2x8s and 2x10s and milling them down for years. They tend to be a lot better than the 2x4s quality wise, and it ends up costing a lot less. Thanks for another great video.

I need a workbench to build my workbench on.

After watching Rex Krueger, I'll just say that he flattens his bench with a handplane every year. He skips finishing the bench because he knows that he'll plane it again. Rex Krueger has made a few workbench designs over the years, and his channel is primarily about handtool woodworking.

I used 2x8s also; but instead of ripping them in half, I ripped them to the depth of my vises (2-5/8, if memory serves), eliminating the need to carve a recess in the bottom of the top. Instead of using construction grade 2xs, I bought Southern Yellow Pine, a tad more expensive than SPF, but also better quality and more stable (or so it seems to me). Cheers from Virginia's southern border!

I put a sacrificial hardboard top on top which helps in flatness, and lets you beat it up and simply replace it

I am actually working on the ash workbench right now. Yes, I am a hermit, I have no social life, I hate money, and I love the smell of contact cement. My wife loves telling people I'm a woodworker and explaining to them that the reason we have almost no custom built furniture in the house is because I spend all my time making needlessly elaborate shop furniture that only I will ever use. In any case, the build is coming along real well. I never worked with ash before, but now I want to use it all the time. It reminds me of oak in terms of appearance, but it's softer, lighter, and a lot easier to work with (and it's pretty cheap!). Probably the best species for shop projects in my opinion.

Another option for the legs that I think is actually a lot less work is to use 3/4" plywood stacks. You can fairly easily incorporate half laps or tenons in the glue stacks. You can also do sturdy legs with just 3 layers formed in an L (staggered at the corner so no 45 degree cuts needed) and still use tenons for the cross pieces. I glued up end frames and left the long side span tenons without glue so I can knock it down if I ever need to move it out my workshop.

Mine is 2x4's with a lower shelf and diagonal bracing on all 4 sides. The top is 2x4 framed with 3 cross frames and topped with 1 inch plywood. Several holes facilitate power cords and clamping of work pieces or tools. 4 large, solid tires with breaks (2 casters, 2 straight) finish it off. I have used this bench for about 15 years with no issues.

Laminate 2 sheets of 3/4” birch ply together and hey presto a nice flat strong top for your work bench without all this fuss

Be careful, Scott. With this upload consistency, I'm gonna start expecting monthly uploads..

That's a beautiful bench. I think it's adaptable to other types of work, as well. (Not just carpentry.) It looks very strong and well-thought-out.

When cutting for the diagonal braces, allow for any end play in the circular saw shaft bearings. If there's a lot of slop and it will move back and forth easily, the saw blade position is going to shift on you.