Don't Make a 2x4 Workbench

Get the plans for the construction lumber WORKBENCH PLANS HERE: scottwalsh.co/products/construction-lumber-workben… Features 20 step-by-step pages, 3d renderings throughout, and a cutlist for the easiest build possible.

At 71, I've built a lot of work benches over the years, using different designs. One of the ones I like the most is using a solid core interior door, with a 1X3 oak perimeter for the top. You can use any type of replaceable top on that, smooth hardboard works well. I also like 4X4's for leg construction, and I've used different bracing, shelving, enclosure to hold it square. The more experience you get, the better the bench(s) seem to get. There is no wrong way, and don't be afraid to experiment!! Nice job on this one BTW!! 8) Peace --gary

I have always used solid core doors for my bench tops. Very straight, very stable, and very cheap if you take your time finding bargains. My best score ever was getting ahold of several 10 ft long, 24 inch wide conference room doors that had no holes in them and they were more than 2 inches thick.

I appreciate the humor and reflections on what didn't work on past builds.

That's a beautiful bench. I think it's adaptable to other types of work, as well. (Not just carpentry.) It looks very strong and well-thought-out.

That’s a heavy duty workbench, great video. My workbench top is made of 3/4 ply with 3/4 MDF on top and finished with 3/16 (I think) hardboard, no planning and perfectly flat. For me, your build was a subtle lesson in various woodworking techniques without being a “lesson”. Well done and keep up your funny demeanor!

You can actually avoid cupping by installing your lumber with the grain facing the right direction. The assumption, looking at the board, is that it will cup "with the grain", but reality is the opposite of the appearance. The long grain will pull away from the short grain, so if your end looks like )))) the cupping will take place on the right side even though you would probably assume it would occur on the left. Install the bark-side of the board down, I noticed you had about half bark-down and half bark-up on both your old bench, which is why only half of it cupped so badly. When making glue-lams, you actually want to alternate grain )))((()))((( so they will naturally tug against one another and prevent warping.

Nice looking bench, appreciate the thoughtfulness in the design.

Great video. Will start considering cutting down larger dimensional lumber in the future instead of 2x4’s. I still think I would go with box top with dog holes though if it was gonna be my only bench. I love the clamping versatility they give.

I used 2x8s also; but instead of ripping them in half, I ripped them to the depth of my vises (2-5/8, if memory serves), eliminating the need to carve a recess in the bottom of the top. Instead of using construction grade 2xs, I bought Southern Yellow Pine, a tad more expensive than SPF, but also better quality and more stable (or so it seems to me). Cheers from Virginia's southern border!

In lieu of the roller that has to get tossed, use some kind of plastic card. It'll spread the glue even thinner, reduce waste from drips during clamping, and you can just wipe off or break off the wet or dried glue when you're done and reuse the plastic card.

I have metamorphosed into a crusty old hermit who works with wood in my garage. Love your work bench! 🥰 I enjoyed all the points you made in this video - Thank You. 👍

Don't ever stop doing these! Awesome pro video skills and even better projects that are realistic!

Scott, thanks for your honesty. Very few creators admit their mistakes.

Fun to watch, informative, and impressive to see the detail and quality of your work. Thanks, Scott.

Love the video format, the sense of humor, and the get-to-the-point presentation.

Thanks for your wonderful video. It reminds me of when I did my workbench. When I was planning my workbench, I slowly accumulated 2x4s from my local Home Depot. Even when I wasn't there to purchase wood, I still looked at what was there and would often pick up a few pieces. Even though the lumber was technically kiln-dried, I let the lumber sit in my garage for a year, stored horizontally. I purchased far more pieces than I knew I would need since during the drying process, unexpected warping and twisting would likely occur. When I was ready to do the actual glue-up, I ran all the pieces through my small portable planer to get absolutely flat and clean surfaces. The lumber ended up perhaps 1-3/8" wide. I only glued up about 5 or 6 pieces at a time, since like you, I didn't want the glue to dry prematurely. When the slab was ready for leveling and flattening, I had a local cabinet shop do it for me. Instead of planing it and then sending it through their wide belt sander, they avoided the planer altogether. They simply used the belt sander for the entire process. The shop brought it down to exactly 3", with no tear-out whatsoever. It was dead flat, a feat I absolutely could not do myself. Their final run was at 100 grit. I then finish sanded. It was a more expensive way to go, but I lacked the skill to flatten such a large slab about 27" x 96" with any consistency. The slab was shortened to 6" or 6.5" (I forgot the actual tabletop size).

Be careful, Scott. With this upload consistency, I'm gonna start expecting monthly uploads..

Great video: Filming, production. Knowlege and commitment to your art. Dry humor just enriches the experience. Learned things too about wood itself. Inspiring. If only I had the time in life to try to build something like you do. Wish I could hire you to make a nice bench. The work of a skilled, dedicated professional craftsman is worth paying for!

I learnt a lot and have now concluded on my workbench design: the slanted brace, modular storage and heavy duty levelling feet. Thanks