Honda SL70 - so close, but not done yet. Video #2 of 3

The headlight comes on when you press the brakes, sir love this build

Mike, Looks Awesome , I just bought a Blue 1971 SL 70 , in excellent condition. This is the 1st SL i have owned . So again , i am learning from you my friend . Thank you for the awesome videos !

Really enjoyed your SL70 video, when I was 3 years old in South Texas, I would have sold my mother for a SL70, hell, I still want one! Oops, I meant 13 years old, sorry, thanks for the video!

Wow that turned out awesome. I wish can find an SL70 for sale here in Conneticut. Again keep up the great videos. I find ur videos very imformative.

We were all seeing that headlight come on when you pulled the brake lever and we couldn’t tell you! 😂 If anyone can figure it out it’s you. Looking forward to the troubleshooting video. Thanks for another good video Mike!

Thanks Mike for the great videos. For anyone that believes they can place decals better live on camera, start a channel on you tube or add a video to your channel on this, then let all the viewers vote on which one was better. Get ready for a humiliation. Mike always says he does the best he can. He never professes to be perfect anyway! Thanks again Mike..... Your videos are great! No one, brings a magnifying glass to appreciate a restored vintage Honda anyway!!!!

Another great build...!!

SL70 was the bike I learned to used a clutch on. was a great little bike!

If your paint is thick enough get several grades of wet or dry and wet sand the finish working down from 4 or 500 to a finer grit to 2500 or 3000, you can actually feel the sandpaper slide easier as your finish gets smoother more water is better when sanding, then if you work down to a 2500 or 3000 grit, you can use a glaze breaking polish and it will look professional. You can use a block or what I use is a small piece I cut off a wooden paint stirrer with a piece of wet or dry 400 grit to sand down any runs. It gives your sandpaper a flat surface so it only sands the high spots. Get some very fine wet sandpaper, Walmart has a pack of them and get a glaze breaking polish and a polish pad for your drill, you will be amazed at what wet sanding and glaze break polishing will do. Had that cracking happen with paint too, it happens with enamel paint that is too thick, the subsequent coats if the paint has cured tries to dissolve the cured coat and ends up in the paint separating or cracking. Thickness of the paint is the enemy. It is better to do several light coats, wet sanding between each with about 400 grit wet or dry to get a smooth surface and re coating to get your color coat established, then do a final coat that will easily glaze smooth without having to put the paint on too thick Cracking happens when the existing paint is thick or if the subsequent coats are also too thick. The good thing is if you let it dry real good in the sun, you can wet sand it thin again and start over. It sucks though because you have to sand it down almost to the primer again. I liked the days of multiple coat lacquers instead of the acrylic enamels of today, they have good results if done in coats without having to polish them, but dry slower and that allows anything floating or flying in the air to land in your finish. If you ever have a problem with a color coat not being smooth, do several clear coats over a well established color and wet sand with a 400 grit down to a 2000 grit in steps and polish with a buffer on a drill, then use a glaze polish to get your final results, anytime you paint or recoat anything with existing paint, prior always wet sand using a 400 grit sand paper , you need that for each subsequent coat to have a clean un contaminated surface and a more rough surface to adhere to. You can do a show room paint job if you take the time wet sanding between coats and polishing with different grades of polish down to a glaze polish.. I was able to blend a paint finish on a car panel I spot painted the color then by feathering the clear coat then wet sanding it into the original clear coat with a 2500 grit wet or dry and polishing it and you could not tell it was not a full panel paint job. It takes patience and practice and good lighting, but wrinkling in your paint is frustrating because it usually happens because you are in a hurry and applying heavy coats to get your color on or to get a glaze instead of taking the time to do several thinner coats, sanding in between when it is not smooth.

Well she runs and looks great.

If you put windex on before the decals and leave it soaking wet you can slide the decals wherever you want. Then just squeegee them in place.

Awesome video my first bike was an SL70 just like that still have it but it is in sad shape. This is good motivation to fix it up.👍

Nice build Mike! Soapy water is your friend when applying those decals.

I've had some really hit or miss experience with the rustoleum paint. I switched to Krylon which worked much better. Duplicolor automotive paint works really well too.

I laugh at all your struggles , only because i´ve been there. soapy water and a spray bottle is the move for the decals.

Yea I saw the headlight come in with the brake. Something is up with the wiring. Probably the reason the first cdi shot craps so fast. The first cdi did try to run and the new cdi seems to still have issues. Just doesn’t sound right.

Headlight came on when you squeezed the front brake lever momentarily might be a ground issue on lights

THE BEST!

i bought a 4 pack of new ngk spark plugs recently off ebay and 1 had no spark at all and the others had intermintent spark...fyi

The headlight came on every time you hit the front brake lever