Surface Grinder Overview

You gotta love these old machines there just not made like this anymore!

Look forward to seeing this in action.

Your X-axis stops are typically set up so that travel slightly exceeds the length of the grind. For small parts, the stops will be close together, and vice versa. For shipping and for wheel dressing, you position the stops so that the table does not travel at all. Very important to jog the machine a few times to get oil flowing before leaving it on continuously. Otherwise, you can ruin spindle bearings. Lube pump generally runs continuously, but small tubing and orifices result in drip flow at multiple places in the machine.

You got a great buy on that one. Steve

I have the same pump in my grinder it uses iso32 . 10w i found it at napa it's used for hydraulics. And it is a recirculating system and the overhead dresser is amazing if you can align it with the spindle . Im sure you will have a blast with this machine

Great deal! Even better than the one I got for $400 But it did come with extras. The stops, as set in your video, are set to dress the wheel. I use Vactra way oil for my lube. I would touch up the magnet but if you were anxious about it there is a technique to check it using 5 or 6 identical pads of steel placed on the corners and middle. Grind their tops to make them even then check each with a micrometer. They should measure identical. There are YouTube's showing this procedure.

Excellent Buy. Well done. I would suggest taking the mag chuck off to clean (and possibly grind) both the table underneath and the underside of the chuck. They get pretty gross under there !

Hi Russ. What a bargain! I know very little about surface grinders other that what I've seen on You Tube. However, my initial thoughts like others would be to get the table tracking as well as possible and then surface grind the chuck. Maybe check the chuck first on a surface plate. I do know a bit about electrics though. Please, please, make sure that the machine is properly 'earthed' (connected to a protective conductor). I'm concerned about that disconnected green wire - which looks rather flimsy if it is indeed an earth (American colour coding,? - yup, I'm in the UK!). Also, before powering up I'd want to trace those other odd wires disapearing down the hole. Ideally you should get someone qualified to do at least a 'Portable (ha!) Appliance Test' on it (PAT) - maybe you could hire the test equipment - they are fully automated. Failing that, a simple resistance check from the castings to a known good 'earth' when connected but unpowered should give a near zero reading, followed by an ac voltage check when powered up, which should also be very low, would go a long way to providing reassurance. For comprehensive detail search 'PAT Test'. Cheers, and enjoy your 'new' toy. Bob.

Nice! Fire alert! Use caution using a shop vac.

After a move take the Chuck off and precision level the machine then grind the bed then grind the bottom of the chuck useing Crisco. Clean and and flip the Chuck and do final grind in useing Crisco again. In operation a cool mister will serve you better than flood because of grit removal. A vacuum system is required unless you want lung cancer and one vented to the outside is better. Heppa does not catch all the particulates no matter what they say. The cable drive needs the 3 wrap to insure positive unavailable drive. Fix the shield on the left end and angle it to the back, the spit out junk hits it and is deflected away from you. Good luck and good grinding your gonna need it.

I don’t know anything about that particular machine, but those stops are often used to set the amount of cross feed and switch the direction of travel on a table with automatic feed

I would note that the original cable had a cable that was about 1/16" in diameter with a nylon coating that was a bit over 1/8" in diameter. It was metric of course.

Not called a "spark guard". It is a parts catcher ;)

wow!! $350 you almost got as good as deal as me i paided $300 for a Norton full hydraulically powered and cam with a brown and sharp mag chuck

I have a similar machine that also has cable feed. The cable will be difficult to find unless Sharp can provide one. Here is a link to a manual that talks about how you install the cable, but it probably can't be done with a similar cable you can get from McMaster. I am going to attempt a cable replacement today. http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/SURFACE%20GRINDER%20-%20SG614-618.pdf

The table stops are for repeatably ..when grinding round stuff (wurly gig) this can be used to move the work out of the way to measure.

I fixed one of these. co had them replace the cable and it broke again

jealous, I'll give you $500 bucks for it :)

I think you should cnc it, who's got time to be standing around turning cranks all day

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