Replace an Air Door Actuator in a 1993 Silverado/ Sierra | No B.S. Tech

No sir, not a 30 minute job when you have big hands, tools required, long reach 72 tooth 1/4" drive ratchet, 7mm socket, long screw driver to apply the tension on the old actuator when removing and last but not least ibuprofen for the couple of days.

Just got done doing all three on the passenger side of my 2004 Yukon with electronic climate control. The passenger side blend door and recirc/fresh air actuators were pure hell. I did manage to swap them all without breaking anything or cutting anything up. My arms and wrists are paying the price and my 16 year old daughter laughed at some of the choice words that came out of my mouth. I took the dash top off, and unbolted and pulled aside what I think is the Onstar module or SAT radio module, silver box with Motorola stamped on it. This gave me enough room to work along with my daughter using the prybar when I told her to. Had to run to Harbor Freight for a Quinn low profile 1/4” ratchet and I cut down a magnetic impact 5.5 mm bit to help fit in there for the PS blend door. It took longer than I wanted to, but everything works like it should now. The issue I was having was a knock in the dash and the blend doors weren’t producing full AC or heat when needed. Problem solved.

Exactly what my '94 is doing. Thanks for the video and tutorial.

Very helpful, that's the worst one to get to, but man you made it look easy

Another great episode!! Thank you!!

You saved me a ton of time!! Thanks!

Removed on my 1993 C2500, as you and one other poster mentioned, the key to this is the 1/4 inch fine tooth with a long handle….and a lot of patience….i thought I had it 4 or 5 times but it was still hanging by a thread or two….placing just a little leverage behind the actuator with a long flathead helped for the last couple of clicks of the ratchet….and then, it finally gave loose….i didn’t have a long handled 1/4 inch fine tooth so neeess to say, the back side of my hand looks like it got hit by a weed whacker I will definitely do the cutout method for the reinstall…thanks for the video!

That top screw will give you nightmares. My problem was everytime I went to back up the ratchet the screw would loosen instead of repositioning the ratchet for another bite. Aggravating. So I put in just the bottom screw and then jammed one of the kinds foam rubber balls up in there. Been like that for 6 years now. The fan speed resistor is another fun project but nowhere near as bad as that actuator screw. A few years ago I found the perfect tool for that screw. It's called a Titereach. Its tough to explain what it is. But basically its a bar with a chain drive inside. You put your socket or bit on one end of the tool and at the other end, which is about 6" away you can use whatever you want to turn it. You can use a drill, impact, ratchet, breaker bar, or anything with a 1/4" square drive to turn it. You hold the bar stationary and rotate the mechanism. The chain drive rotate the socket or bit on the other end. They make it in 3/8ths or 1/4" drive. I use a Titereach to get to the ac lines on the back of the AC compressor in my C5 Corvette. They thought it would be a great idea to mount the AC compressor down under the engine on the passenger side.

Thanks. Very informative.

Very helpful. Thank you.

Yes sir ive had that problem. Now ill try to replace it .thankyou

Great video

GREAT VIDEO !!! This will keep me from using cuss words!

Thank you so much!! I can repair it myself．　From Japan

so it is ok to turn it on while it is not setup but the harness should be connected?!?

Do you have a video on your stereo setup?

What could be the problem if the belt come off when fan is on max?Could it be the compressor?

Just replaced mine still no heat coming out

Get it right for your lady!

Dude!!!!!!!